adding-a-mains-power-switch
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adding-a-mains-power-switch [2012/11/26 03:49] buildrob |
adding-a-mains-power-switch [2013/01/02 04:59] (current) buildrob |
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| ===== Illuminated power switch, IEC plug and fuse. ===== | ===== Illuminated power switch, IEC plug and fuse. ===== | ||
| - | [Work in progress] | + | {{:msfwebdude_supply_switch_2.jpg?400}} |
| You can buy an integrated illuminated switch, IEC socket and fuse module here: http://www.amazon.com/Inlet-Power-Socket-Switch-IEC320/dp/B00511QVVK/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1349228924&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Inlet+Male+Power+Socket+with+Fuse+Switch+10A+250V+3+Pin+IEC320+C14 | You can buy an integrated illuminated switch, IEC socket and fuse module here: http://www.amazon.com/Inlet-Power-Socket-Switch-IEC320/dp/B00511QVVK/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1349228924&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Inlet+Male+Power+Socket+with+Fuse+Switch+10A+250V+3+Pin+IEC320+C14 | ||
| [There are also plenty of vendors selling them on Ebay if you are not in the US.] | [There are also plenty of vendors selling them on Ebay if you are not in the US.] | ||
| - | You will need to buy a 20mmx5mm mains fuse for this module as well. The fuse should ideally be Slow Blow and at least 2-3x times the current rating of the supply in order to handle start up surge currents (Current = Watts / Mains Voltage). E.g., for a 350W power supply at 240V it only has a max load current of ~1.5A but you would want at least a 4 or 5 amp fuse. I did try a 5A fast blow fuse for this supply and that seemed be able to handle the inrush current (I was out of slow blow fuses at the time). Also remember to double the current if you are halving the supply voltage (i.e., 120V). | + | You will need to buy a 20mmx5mm mains fuse for this module as well. The fuse should ideally be Slow Blow and at least 2-3x times the current rating of the supply in order to handle start up surge currents (Current = Watts / Mains Voltage). E.g., for a 350W power supply at 240V it only has a max load current of ~1.5A but you would want at least a 4 amp fuse. I tried a 5A fast blow fuse for this supply and that seemed be able to handle the inrush current (I didn't have any slow blow fuses at the time). Also remember to double the current if you are halving the supply voltage (i.e., 10A for 115V). |
| - | You can find the power supply cover design files here to fit it on the power supply: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31659 [Kudos to NewtonRob for this idea.] | + | You can find the power supply cover design files here to fit it on the power supply: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31659 [Kudos to NewtonRob for the original idea.] |
| - | [insert pic here for wiring of switch] | + | When wiring the module, you need to connect the neutral and active terminals of the socket to the slightly narrower set of switch terminals. Depending on how your switch was assembled these could be either on the right or the left hand side. The corresponding terminal on the other side of the switch is then connected to the same active or neutral power supply terminal. |
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| + | In the picture below, active is brown and neutral is blue (as is the standard). | ||
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| + | {{:msfwebdude_supply_switch_3.jpg?400}} {{:powerswitchwiring.png?400}} | ||
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| + | If you look carefully in the above picture you can see the neon lamp is connected to the slightly wider set of terminals on the right-hand of the switch (this comes preconnected). If you got it wrong and connected the wires from the socket to these terminals then the neon lamp would simply be permanently on. On the other hand, it should not matter whether the active or neutral is connected to the top or bottom set of switch terminals just as long as the other side is correspondingly connected to the power supply. | ||
| ===== Other ideas ===== | ===== Other ideas ===== | ||
adding-a-mains-power-switch.1353923345.txt.gz · Last modified: 2012/11/26 03:49 by buildrob
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