flight-check [Bukobot 3D Printer Instructions & Docs]

Link to this comparison view

--- flight-check [2012/11/19 00:33]
deezmaker
+++ flight-check [2014/02/12 18:57] (current)
whosawhatsis [#5 Check your heaters]
@@ Line 3: / Line 3: @@
 ==== What to do before starting to print for the first time. ====
-(//Applies to all Bukobot models unless specifically noted//)
+<box red>FIXME - This page may need a little updating.</box>
-=== Make sure the X axis is level ===
+==== #1 Check Power ====
+{{:bukobotv2:img_4525.jpg?200|}} {{:power_supply_-_250w.jpg?200|}}
+  * Check that the power supply input switch is set to the right input voltage for your country (110 for the US, factory setting is 220).
+  * Check power wire polarity, Power supply in (AC), Power supply out (DC), and Controller input
-To check the X axis, press both ends of the X axis down on their UHMW nuts to make sure they haven't lifted during transport, then gently tighten the small screw on each one.
+==== #2 Plug in Power and USB ====
-Measure both ends of the X axis rods and make sure they are the same distance from the base of the frame. To adjust, grip the lead screw couplers and turn them by hand while holding the opposite motor still (one motor may generate enough current to cause the other to turn). You can use a ruler/calipers or just lower them onto any sturdy and straight object until it just touches the smooth rods when placed under each end.
+{{:wiki:icons:usb.png?100|}} {{:software:repetierhost-box-trans-500.png?100|}}
+  * Open [[software-to-install|Repetier Host]]
-=== Check the Synchromesh cable tension ===
-Check Synchromesh cables between the two pulleys on the X & Y axis and pluck them gently, they should be tight enough to feel like a guitar string.
+Check [[host-slicing-settings|Printer Settings]], and select your printer from the drop down options (Do not select "Virtual Printer", it does nothing)
+[[http://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-host/rh-installation-and-configuration/|See Repetier Documention for Details]]
+  * MAC:  "usbserial-XXXXXXXX"
+  * Windows: COM(Number)
+  * Linx: USB(Number)
-If they don’t feel tight, locate the tensioner on the X carriage and slightly loosen the two screws. Turn the tensioner to pull the cable tighter, then tighten the screws again.
+If your printer is plugged into your USB port and you do not see one of these options, you probably haven't installed the [[software-to-install|FTDI driver]]. Find the correct driver for your system on this page: [[http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm|http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm]]
-To adjust the Y axis Synchromesh cable under the platform, tighten the screw under the platform, facing the front, until the cable is more tense like a guitar string.
+  * Make sure baud rate is set to 250000 (115200 if you reinstalled the firmware with SERIAL_COMPATIBILITY enabled)
+  * If you have a dual extruder machine, switch to the "behavior" tab in "Printer Settings" and set number of extruders to 2.
+  * Close printer settings and connect to printer.
+==== #3 Check Motors ====
-=== Check Motor Direction ===
+Switch to "Print Panel" ("Manual Control" in newer windows versions) and check motor connections and directions (if any are wrong, click "Stop motor" or "Turn motor off" before plugging/unplugging them, fix wrong direction by turning the connector over) center the X and Y, and make sure Z has room to move in both directions
+  * Click the positive 10 for the X axis. Extruder should move toward the right.
+  * Click the positive 10 for the Y axis. Platform should move toward the front.
+  * Click the positive 10 for the Z axis. Extruder should move up should move up.
+  * Type M302 into the gcode box above the jog controls and send to disable cold extrusion prevention (no filament should be loaded).
+  * Scroll to the extruder settings below the jog controls.
+  * Click extrude, and look at the drive gear for extruder 1 from above.
+It should be turning toward the filament channel (clockwise for a left extruder, counter-clockwise for a right extruder, if you only have one, it's probably configured as a right extruder).
-[To be written soon]
+While you are doing this, make sure that your drive gear is aligned properly. The lowest point in the grooves should line up with the hole for the heater barrel. If it isn't, turn the extruder in 1mm increments until the setscrew is pointed in a convenient direction to loosen it, slide the drive gear until it is properly aligned, and re-tighten it.
-=== Adjust the Z endstop ===
+If you have a dual extruder:
+  * The right extruder should be the one that is turning
+  * Select extruder 2 and repeat, checking the left extruder.
-Adjust the Z endstop all the way up by turning the thumbscrew below it (loosen spring).
+==== #4 Check Your Endstops ====
-By hand, move the nozzle to the center, and the platform all the way forward but make sure the nozzle in a few millimeters within the glass on the platform.
+Locate the blue reset button near the USB connector and be ready to press it if an endstop does not function.
+Click the "Stop Motor" button in Repetier host to make sure the motors are not engaged, then manually push the extruder to the right end. Click the "Home X" button in Repetier host, then tap the X endstop switch. The extruder should begin moving left and stop when you hit the button. When it stops, it will reverse a few millimeters, then move to the left again more slowly for a few more millimeters. If the extruder does not stop when you tap the the endstop switch, check your endstop wiring. You may have the X endstop plugged into the wrong endstop port. If it works, click "Home X" again to ensure that the X carriage properly touches the endstop when it gets to the left end.
-Connect the USB cable and power on the Bukobot, establish a connection with the host program (Repetier Host or Pronterface).
+Repeat this procedure with the Y axis, starting by moving the platform manually to the front.
-Find the reset button near the USB connector be ready to push it so that you can stop the machine in the rare case of the endstop fails or if it’s too low.
+Click the "Stop Motor" button in Repetier host again and make sure that your Z axis is at least a few inches above its endstop so that you have time to react if the axis does not stop, turning both screws together by hand if necessary. Unlike the other axes, Z has enough mechanical advantage to potentially break things if it does not stop, but is also moves much more slowly.
-Raise the Z axis with the host software a few millimeters, away from the end stop to make sure it’s working (Note: At first start you can only go up or positive on the Z axis), then click "Home Z" in your host software and test the Z endstop by manually tapping it twice while the axis is moving down. If it does not function, reset the printer and turn it off, then check the wiring from the switch to the motherboard before continuing.
+Click "Home Z", then test the Z endstop again as above. Be sure to keep your finger on the reset button in case the endstop does not function.
-Click "Home Z" again, and the Z axis should move down, touching the endstop before the nozzle touches the platform, move back up a few millimeters and move more slowly back down to the endstop. If the nozzle touches the platform first, press the reset button to stop it, then move the Z axis up and adjust the endstop higher before trying again.
+Lift your Z axis to 100mm using the jog controls.
-Once the endstop stops the extruder above the platform, adjust it down with the thumb wheel a bit and press "Home Z" again. Repeat until the nozzle barely touches the platform without pushing it down. You should be able to slide a piece of paper under the nozzle and feel only a slight resistance.
+==== #5 Check your heaters ====
-=== Leveling the platform ===
+Switch to temperature curve view.
-Lower the front part of the platform by tightening the two thumb wheels in the front of the platform, then move the platform and extruder nozzle so that the nozzle is over the front right corner of the glass.
+Make sure you are set to extruder 1, set temperature to 60 and turn it on.
-Loosen the thumb wheel until the nozzle just touches the platform, and you can slide a piece of paper under the nozzle with slight resistance.
+Check to see that the extruder 1 temperature (thin red line) starts moving up (it should be pretty fast)
-Repeat this process on the front left corner and then again on the right to make sure they are both equal.
+If it doesn't start to rise after a few seconds, turn the heat off immediately.
-The nozzle should now move freely just over the surface of the whole platform. If it does not, or a gap appears between the nozzle and platform in one area, repeat the Z endstop adjustment first and then try the platform leveling procedures.
+If you have a dual extruder and the temperature monitor does not show the extruder heating, try switching to extruder 2. If the line jumps up when you do this, you have the wrong thermistor connected to each extruder heater. Fix this by switching your extruder 1 and extruder 2 thermistor connections, then start over the "Check your heaters" procedure.
-=== Load your filament ===
+If that was not the problem, check the wiring for your extruder heater and thermistor.
+  * Check the screw terminals on the controller board where the heater connects.
+  * Check the screw terminals on the carriage where the thermistor connects, and the plug where it connects to the electronics.
-In your host software, move the Z axis up to 20mm or more so that there is empty space under the nozzle.
+If both of these appear to be ok, unplug the machine and disconnect the heater and thermistor wires. Check the resistance of the heater and thermistor with a multimeter.
-Insert the filament into the fixed end of the feed tube until it comes out the other side and it is exposed a few inches.
+The heater should read 3.3 ohms. Many multimeters will have trouble measuring accurately at this low resistance, so don't worry if it measures a little off.
-Release the extruder idler latch by turning the cam lock (shaped like a bird's head) and lifting it free, then rotate the idler down on its hinge.
+The most likely failure mode is infinite resistance (open circuit), which indicates a damaged or defective heater that needs to be replaced, or that you are checking the wrong pair of wires (for example, one wire from one heater and one wire from the other).
+  * The thermistor should read roughly 100 Kohms. The actual value will vary with temperature.
-Insert the end of your filament through the small hole at the top of the extruder. It should come out at the filament drive gear and pass into the second hole below it. Continue sliding the filament down as far as possible until it stops.
+The most likely failure mode is infinite resistance (open circuit), which indicates that a wire is not connected or broken.
-Close and re-lock the idler, making sure that it is tight. When you pull the cam lock to compress the spring, it should just slip over the slot in the idler block in the disengaged position. If it is loose, tighten the nut on the opposite end of the M4 screw across the top of the extruder. Turn the cam lock 180 degrees to engage it.
+The second most likely failure mode is no resistance (short circuit), indicating that the two thermistor wires are connected to each other somewhere, bypassing the thermistor. A multimeter with an audible continuity test mode is best for tracking down either of these problems.
+  * Turn your extruder off.
-In the host software, set the extruder to the appropriate temperature for your plastic. For the included Diamond Age PLA, this is 185-190c, for normal ABS use about 210-220c.
+If your first extruder heats properly and you have two, check that the temperature reading is below 60 and that you haven't heated the other extruder, then check each of the heater blocks to see which is actually warm. You can use a thermocouple probe or an infrared thermometer for this if you have one, otherwise use your finger after CAREFULLY ensuring that neither extruder has been heated above 60C, otherwise you may burn yourself.
-Once the extruder has reached its target temperature, pull the end of the feed tube to 10mm from the extruder block, extrude 50mm of filament at 80mm/minute to prime the extruder. Watch the end of the feed tube to make sure that the filament is moving. It should be pulled along with the filament until it touches the extruder block and the filament begins to slide through it. If it moves, but no filament comes out, extrude another 20mm until plastic begins to flow out of the nozzle. If the plastic that comes out is the wrong color, it is left-over plastic from the previous time the extruder was used, and you will need to continue to extrude until the color has changed completely to purge the nozzle. If you want to use a material with a different melting temperature, you will have to do this at the highest of the two temperatures until the nozzle has been completely purged.
+The right block should be warm, and the left should be cool. If the left block is the warm one, switch both the extruder thermistor connectors and the extruder heater wires on your controller board, then start over the "Check your heaters" procedure.
-=== Check Homing ===
+Switch to Extruder 2 and check it the same way.
+  * Set platform temperature to 60 and turn it on.
+  * The LED indicator on the platform should turn on.
+  * Check to see that the platform temperature (thin blue line) starts moving up (it may take a few seconds to start)
-The Bukobot has endstops for all axis (X,Y,Z) so before printing, always check that you are in the home position and your start code also contains any homing commands.
+Turn the platform off.
+=== You are now ready for a test extrusion. ===
+Heat your extruder to 210C if you are going to test with PLA, or 230 if you are going to test with ABS. Set the extruder speed to 100mm/min. Straighten the end of your filament and push it down to the top of the barrel as far as it will go, then flip the handle on the idler mechanism up to lock it against the drive gear.
+Set the extrude length to 10mm and press extrude when the temperature curve display in Repetier Host indicates that it has reached the target temperature. If you hear your extruder clicking when you try this, release the idler and try inserting the filament again. It will be easier to get it started if you sharpen the tip of the filament a bit.
+Click extrude a few more times until plastic starts coming out of the nozzle. If your machine was pre-assembled, there may already be PLA in the nozzle that may not match the color of what you put in. If this happens, just continue extruding until the old plastic is flushed out and the plastic coming out is the same color as what's going in. Some people like to save their printer's first test extrusion, or "noodle", as a keepsake.
+Your machine is configured to automatically extrude a few millimeters of filament every 30 seconds if you leave it idling while hot. This is to prevent plastic from sitting hot in the nozzle too long and burning or oozing out and leaving the nozzle un-primed. For the next step, you want your nozzle hot so that the metal is fully expanded, but you don't want any plastic coming out, so retract the plastic 10mm.
+Square and tram your machine.
+The term "tram" means to make your platform parallel to the X/Y plane of the machine. This does not need to be level (perpendicular to gravity), and in fact your machine should be able to print upside-down or in zero gravity.
+First, you must square your machine. A machinist's square is best, but a small carpenter's square will also work. Start by checking the squareness of the joint where your Y axis connects to the frame. This will square your machine on the X/Y plane. The frame is designed to use the right angles of the aluminum extrusions to be self-squaring on the Y/Z plane, so you just need to square the X/Z plane. To do this, move your Z axis up or down until you can stand your square on the bottom frame beam and the X axis bars are just above it. Click "Stop Motor" in Repetier Host to disengage your Z motors, then turn them by hand until the bar just touches your standing square. Move the square to the other side and turn the motor on that side while holding the other still (when one Z motor turns, the other will try to turn with it) until it just touches. Repeat this process, moving from one side to the other until no adjustment is needed on either side for the rod to just touch the square.
+Tighten your three platform mounting adjustment nuts until the springs are fully compressed, then home your Z axis. Click "Stop Motor" to make sure your X and Y motors are disengaged, then move the extruder and platform by hand until the nozzle is over the glass nearest one of the adjustment screws, and loosen that nut until the nozzle just touches. Your nozzle should still be hot at this point, because the barrel will get slightly longer due to thermal expansion when it heats up. If plastic has started extruding out of the nozzle, clean it off with tweezers and retract the filament 10mm again.
+To check the height, slip a piece of paper under the nozzle to use as a feeler gauge (post-it notes work particularly well for this if you put the sticky side up and stick your fingers to it). The nozzle should just barely press the paper against the platform and resist when you try to move the paper around, but should not grip it firmly.
+Move the extruder and platform to one of the other screws and repeat this procedure until all three have been adjusted.
+Open the "{{:software:bukobot_tram_200mm.gcode|bukobot tram 200mm.gcode}}" file and click run (If you have a dual extruder Bukobot shipped prior to the beginning of 2014, select extruder 2 for now, as this code assumes that your nozzle is touching the front left corner at zero). This will move the nozzle to the each of the screw positions and touch the platform, then pause to wait for you to adjust the screw if necessary. Once it has touched each position twice, it will print a border around the platform. Watch it print this to ensure that the thickness of the lines being put down is consistent. If the lines do not touch the previous line, that part of the platform edge is too low and needs to be adjusted up, if the lines are too wide and flat or the nozzle gets close enough to the platform to block the nozzle entirely and no plastic comes out, adjust that part down. If it's a corner without a screw, adjust the screw on the opposite corner in the opposite direction. If your platform is not correctly adjusted by the time it finishes printing the outlines, cancel the print and start again, otherwise click continue and the printer will begin a test print.
+== If you have a single extruder, you're done! ==
+== If you have a dual extruder: ==
+You'll need to measure the offset of the nozzles to prepare for dual extrusion. To do this, make sure your extruders are loaded with two different colors of PLA and run "{{:software:combined_offset_test_2.1.gcode|combined offset test 2.1.gcode}}". This will print a test pattern to allow you to calibrate the extruder offset. Find the line in the vertical and horizontal test that match up best and look up the corresponding number in the table at the beginning of that file. Insert these numbers into the toolhead offset for your left extruder in Slic3r. For more detail on this process, and for a brief tutorial on how to use a duo, download pdf file {{:software:usingyourduo2013.pdf|here.}}
+==== You're done and ready to start printing in 3D! ====

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