hot-end-thermal-management [Bukobot 3D Printer Instructions & Docs]

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--- hot-end-thermal-management [2013/01/14 06:19]
buildrob
+++ hot-end-thermal-management [2013/04/04 05:13] (current)
buildrob
@@ Line 81: / Line 81: @@
 One strip 19mm wide is made, and one 14mm wide.
-More cutting, resulting in two pieces:  74 x 14 mm, and 45 x 19 mm:
+More cutting, resulting in two pieces:  74 x 14 mm, and 45 x 19 mm.
 {{wiki:jitsbuild:hotend6.png}}
+If you need to insulate two extruders from the initial 75mm strip you should cut the 19mm strip in half so that you have a 37 x 19mm (x 2 pieces) and a 75 x 14mm (x 2 pieces). In this case the 19mm piece won't be long enough to cut a full 10mm hole as described below but you will still be able to create a perfectly functional cover.
 A hole is cut.  It is 10mm in diameter, with its center 7 mm from one end.  It should be centered along the centerline, better than this:
@@ Line 97: / Line 99: @@
 {{wiki:jitsbuild:hotend9.png}}
-The remaining piece is wrapped around the three uncovered sides of the block, and taped in place.  Additional layers of tape are wrapped around in various directions, taking care to keep the tape off the conical nozzle.  None of the tape or insulating fabric should extend below the bottom of the nozzle:
+The remaining 14mm piece is wrapped around the three uncovered sides of the block, and taped in place.  Additional layers of tape are wrapped around in various directions, taking care to keep the tape off the conical nozzle.  None of the tape or insulating fabric should extend below the bottom of the nozzle:
 {{wiki:jitsbuild:hotend10.png}}
 Looks like rubbish, but it insulates the heater block fairly well.
+Another alternative to taping the 19mm piece of material to the heater block itself is to instead tape it to the other 14mm strip. The position of the 19mm piece in this option is adjusted so that it extends down the side of the heater block to match the width of the 14mm skirt (which is put around the other three sides as described above). This should give the appearance of a continuous skirt all the way around the heater block which is subjectively slightly neater looking. The bottom of the heater was left open primarily again for aesthetic reasons (the cooling fan won't reach the bottom and heater block is now insulated on all the other sides). However if you are using a PLA cooling fan then you might consider covering the bottom side as well as there is a lot more indirect airflow.
+{{:buildrob_hot_end_thermal_management_1.jpg?400}} {{:buildrob_hot_end_thermal_management_2.jpg?400}}
 The threaded tube above the heater block is left uncovered, so it can be cooled.  If it were covered, the thermal barrier (the brown material above it) would probably overheat and leak molten plastic.
+It should also be remembered that the importance of such insulation is relative to the hot-end temperature you are trying to reach and the ambient temperature of the room. If you bought a PLA-only Bukobot then because much lower temperatures are required by PLA, thus far less insulation & shielding is needed, that is, ceramic tape based insulation is likely to be overkill. Simply wrapping some Kapton tape around the heater block and managing air flow from the cooling fan is likely to be sufficient - that seems to be how many other people deal with the problem.
 //The contents of this page may be re-used under any of the following licenses:  The [[http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/|Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License (CC BY-SA 3.0)]], or the [[http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html|GNU Free Documentation License (GFDL, version 1.2 or later)]].//

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