hot-end-thermal-management
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hot-end-thermal-management [2013/01/14 07:54] buildrob |
hot-end-thermal-management [2013/04/04 05:13] (current) buildrob |
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| - | Alternatively the end of the 19mm piece can just be taped to the other 14mm strip instead of to the heater block itself. The position of the 19mm piece in this option is adjusted so that it extends down the side of the heater block for the same length as the width of the 14mm skirt (which is put around the other three sides as described below). This should give the appearance of a continuous skirt all the way around the heater block (subjectively slightly neater looking). | ||
| The remaining 14mm piece is wrapped around the three uncovered sides of the block, and taped in place. Additional layers of tape are wrapped around in various directions, taking care to keep the tape off the conical nozzle. None of the tape or insulating fabric should extend below the bottom of the nozzle: | The remaining 14mm piece is wrapped around the three uncovered sides of the block, and taped in place. Additional layers of tape are wrapped around in various directions, taking care to keep the tape off the conical nozzle. None of the tape or insulating fabric should extend below the bottom of the nozzle: | ||
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| Looks like rubbish, but it insulates the heater block fairly well. | Looks like rubbish, but it insulates the heater block fairly well. | ||
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| + | Another alternative to taping the 19mm piece of material to the heater block itself is to instead tape it to the other 14mm strip. The position of the 19mm piece in this option is adjusted so that it extends down the side of the heater block to match the width of the 14mm skirt (which is put around the other three sides as described above). This should give the appearance of a continuous skirt all the way around the heater block which is subjectively slightly neater looking. The bottom of the heater was left open primarily again for aesthetic reasons (the cooling fan won't reach the bottom and heater block is now insulated on all the other sides). However if you are using a PLA cooling fan then you might consider covering the bottom side as well as there is a lot more indirect airflow. | ||
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| + | {{:buildrob_hot_end_thermal_management_1.jpg?400}} {{:buildrob_hot_end_thermal_management_2.jpg?400}} | ||
| The threaded tube above the heater block is left uncovered, so it can be cooled. If it were covered, the thermal barrier (the brown material above it) would probably overheat and leak molten plastic. | The threaded tube above the heater block is left uncovered, so it can be cooled. If it were covered, the thermal barrier (the brown material above it) would probably overheat and leak molten plastic. | ||
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| + | It should also be remembered that the importance of such insulation is relative to the hot-end temperature you are trying to reach and the ambient temperature of the room. If you bought a PLA-only Bukobot then because much lower temperatures are required by PLA, thus far less insulation & shielding is needed, that is, ceramic tape based insulation is likely to be overkill. Simply wrapping some Kapton tape around the heater block and managing air flow from the cooling fan is likely to be sufficient - that seems to be how many other people deal with the problem. | ||
| //The contents of this page may be re-used under any of the following licenses: The [[http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/|Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License (CC BY-SA 3.0)]], or the [[http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html|GNU Free Documentation License (GFDL, version 1.2 or later)]].// | //The contents of this page may be re-used under any of the following licenses: The [[http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/|Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License (CC BY-SA 3.0)]], or the [[http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html|GNU Free Documentation License (GFDL, version 1.2 or later)]].// | ||
hot-end-thermal-management.1358171696.txt.gz · Last modified: 2013/01/14 07:54 by buildrob
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