jitsbuild-extruder [Bukobot 3D Printer Instructions & Docs]

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--- jitsbuild-extruder [2012/12/10 15:51]
jit
+++ jitsbuild-extruder [2014/01/25 17:44] (current)
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 [[jitsbuild-platform|Prev:  Platform]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[jitsbuild-wires|Next:  Wires]]
+//This page pertains to the Bukobot v1.  Some portions may be useful to v2 owners.  For more information, see [[jitsbuild|here]].//
 Get out the extruder kit ([[bukobot-parts-list#bukostruder|bag 18]]):
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 {{wiki:jitsbuild:extruder-lever-bothviews.png}}
-All of the thin structures on this part must be removed.  A good tool for this is the small diagonal cutter:
+All of the thin structures on this part must be removed.  A good tool for this is the small diagonal cutter (or side cutter):
 {{wiki:jitsbuild:extruder-lever-trimming.png?800}}
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 {{wiki:jitsbuild:tatsu-align.png?800}}
-Install both of the long screws and both of the short screws, as shown above (the short flat-head screws are hard to see, but they're there).
+Install both of the long screws and both of the short screws, as shown above (the short flat-head screws are hard to see in this image, but they're there).
 Close the extruder lever and look down through the hole in the lever at the grooved Tatsu gear and the bearing.  They should be aligned;  the machined grooves in the side of the Tatsu gear must be exactly opposite the bearing.  If they're not, open the lever and adjust the position of the Tatsu gear on the shaft, using the 1.5 mm hex driver.
@@ Line 92: / Line 93: @@
 Note that there is a washer on both sides of the spring.
-This assembly is ready to add to the X carriage.  However, you may need to raise the X axis first, otherwise the hot end may hit the platform.  If you used the soup can leveling method earlier, then you may not need to raise anything, but you should still go through the steps below to make sure the hot end clears every part of the platform.
+Before installing the extruder on the X carriage, you should add thermal insulation to the hot end.  Methods for doing this are described [[hot-end-thermal-management|here]].  You can do it later, but it's easier when the extruder isn't mounted.  Some of the images below don't show the thermal insulation.
+This assembly is now ready to add to the X carriage.  However, you may need to raise the X axis first, otherwise the hot end may hit the platform.  If you used the soup can leveling method earlier, then you may not need to raise anything, but you should still go through the steps below to make sure the hot end clears every part of the platform.
 If you have a dual-extruder model, you don't need to raise the X axis before installing the first extruder.  If you are installing the left extruder, just move the X carriage all the way to the left and the extruder will clear the left edge of the platform.  You may still have to raise the X axis before you move the extruder back to the right.  The following assumes you have a single-extruder model and have to raise the X axis before installing the extruder.
@@ Line 113: / Line 116: @@
 {{wiki:jitsbuild:extruder-from-front.png?800}}
+Note: in the picture above the nut on the tensioning screw has not been tightened as much as it should be. The long M4 tensioning screw is not fully-threaded and the nut should be tightened down all the way to the un-threaded part of the screw. Even so, some filaments are particularly stiff and hard to extrude. If you are trying to use one of these hard types of filament and you can hear the filament periodically slipping (and you have already tried cleaning out the filament drive teeth) then consider adding a few more washers to increase the amount of compression on the spring.
 Now it's time for the initial leveling of the platform.  We will do this again, more precisely, later.
-The primary purpose of this procedure is to make the platform roughly parallel with the X and Y axes, and to make sure there is enough clearance between the hot end(s) and the platform (including anything that may sit on top of the platform, such as the glass sheet), and to practice this procedure.  You can put the glass sheet on top of the platform if you wish, as long as you don't forget that it's there and lose control of it, and as long as you don't jam the hot end(s) into it.  Alternatively, you can just keep the distance between the hot end(s) and the platform greater than the thickness of the glass.
+The primary purpose of this procedure is to make the platform roughly parallel with the X and Y axes, and to make sure there is enough clearance between the hot end(s) and the platform (including anything that may sit on top of the platform, such as the glass sheet), and to practice this procedure.  You can put the glass sheet on top of the platform if you wish, as long as you don't forget that it's there and lose control of it, and as long as you don't jam the hot end(s) into it.  Alternatively, you can just keep the distance between the hot end(s) and the platform greater than the thickness of the glass.  Or perhaps you already installed the glass sheet and tape.
 Place the extruder wires somewhere where they won't hang up on the synchromesh cable or anything else.  Watch the hot end and slowly move the X carriage to the right.  If the hot end gets closer to the platform, then the platform height adjuster on the right needs to be turned.  Turn it anti-clockwise, as viewed from above, to lower that side of the platform.
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 Once you get to the front right corner, slowly move the hot end to the left.  If it gets too close to the platform, lower the left front corner of the platform by turning that wheel the same way as before.  Once you get to the left front corner, it should be safe to move the hot end to any part of the platform.  Check that, slowly.  If you have any hardware protruding from the top of the platform, such as the electrical connections on the heated platform, don't hit them with the hot end.
-If you have a second extruder, do that one too.  Carefully check platform clearance, as the second extruder might hang farther down than the first.  If they hang at different heights, you may have to shim with thin washers.  But first, check to make sure the extruders aren't hung up somewhere on their mounts.  Also check that an imaginary line drawn between the two extruder nozzles is exactly parallel with the horizontal steel rods;  if not, adjust the position of one or both extruders until it is.
+If you have a second extruder, do that one too.  Carefully check platform clearance, as the second extruder might hang farther down than the first.  If they hang at different heights, you may have to shim with thin washers.  But first, check to make sure the extruders aren't hung up somewhere on their mounts.  Also check that an imaginary line drawn between the two extruder nozzles is exactly parallel with the horizontal steel rods;  if not, adjust the position of one or both extruders until it is, or as close as you can get it. A good starting point is to try aligning both hot-ends to the edge of the heated bed glass which you in turn align with the front or back edge of the heated bed.
-Note that the lower portion of the hot end should be thermally insulated for best results.  Polyimide tape is provided for this purpose.  This is not covered here, but look [[hot-end-thermal-management|here]].
+On the dual-extruder machines, there is an offset between the two hot-ends that is roughly 75 mm in the X direction, zero (or nearly zero) in the Y direction, and (must be!) exactly zero in the Z direction.  You have to get the Z offset as close to zero as you can.  Then you measure the X and Y offsets and input those numbers into the software before you print (you do this just once at first, and then again any time you loosen your extruder mounts).  To measure those offsets, see [[http://forum.bukobot.com/index.php?topic=33.msg127#msg127|here]].  Don't worry about making those measurements right now.
-You should now have everything set up so that you won't get a collision between the extruder(s) and the platform, no matter where you move either axis.  At this point you should move the Z axis endstop up until its switch is fully depressed.  Loosen its 5mm screw (the one holding it onto the right frame piece) and move it up, then tighten that screw.  You will re-adjust the endstop later.
+You should now have everything set up so that you won't get a collision between the extruder(s) and the platform, no matter where you move either axis.  At this point you should move the Z axis endstop up until its switch is fully depressed.  Loosen its 5mm screw (the one holding it onto the right frame piece) and move it up until it stops, then tighten that screw.  You will re-adjust the endstop later.
 [[jitsbuild-platform|Prev:  Platform]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[jitsbuild-wires|Next:  Wires]]
-//The contents of this page may be re-used under any of the following licenses:  The [[http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/|Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License (CC BY-SA 3.0)]], or the [[http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html|GNU Free Documentation License (GFDL, version 1.2 or later)]].//
+//The contents of this page may be re-used under any of the following licenses:  The [[http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/|Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License (CC BY-SA 3.0)]], or the [[http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html|GNU Free Documentation License (GFDL, version 1.2 or later)]].  Nothing on any of these pages is there to tell you what to do, only what other people have already done.//

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