jitsbuild-frame [Bukobot 3D Printer Instructions & Docs]

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--- jitsbuild-frame [2013/01/11 06:36]
buildrob
+++ jitsbuild-frame [2014/01/25 17:42] (current)
jit
@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 [[jitsbuild-y-axis|Prev:  Y axis]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[jitsbuild-z-axis|Next:  Z axis]]
+//This page pertains to the Bukobot v1.  Some portions may be useful to v2 owners.  For more information, see [[jitsbuild|here]].//
 =====Parts=====
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 {{wiki:jitsbuild:frame-lowerleftcorner2.png?800}}
-It is recommended that you check that the center two nuts of each corner piece do not freely rotate in their seats as you will not be able to slide anything down the channel to get these nuts to grab. If the nuts do rotate you can apply small slither of cloth tape or gaffer tape around the outside edge of the nut to make it slightly bigger.
+Before you tap the frame bottom extrusion in, make sure the four slots (two on each side) are properly aligned with the rectangular plastic pieces.  If not, adjust the position of one of the rectangular plastic pieces on the frame side piece.
-Before you tap the frame bottom extrusion in, make sure the four slots (two on each side) are properly aligned with the rectangular plastic pieces.  If not, adjust the position of one of the rectangular plastic pieces on the frame side piece.
+It is also recommended that you check that the center two nuts of each corner piece do not freely rotate in their seats as you will not be able to slide anything down the channel to get these nuts to grab. If the nuts do rotate you can apply small slither of cloth tape or gaffer tape around the outside edge of the nut to make it slightly bigger.
 Using the mallet, tap the frame bottom in until it is flush. Tighten the 8 horizontal screws (four on each side).
-To get the bottom and side extrusions aligned exactly along the bottom surface, lay the currently unattached top extrusion piece down on a flat surface and then lay the corner join //on top of// this extrusion (you are simply using the top extrusion as an elevated flat surface). The vertical frame nuts of the join should be loose so the side extrusion can slide up and down. Then press down on either the bottom extrusion or the side extrusion until the corner is flush against the top extrusion piece on which the join is resting. Tighten remaining screws.
+To get the bottom and side extrusions aligned exactly along the bottom surface, lay the currently unattached top extrusion piece down on a flat surface and then lay the corner join //on top of// this extrusion as shown below (you are simply using the top extrusion as an elevated flat surface). The vertical frame nuts of the join should be loose so the side extrusion can slide up and down. Then press down on either the bottom extrusion or the side extrusion until the corner is flush against the top extrusion piece on which the join is resting. Tighten remaining screws.
+{{:aligning_frame_corner.jpg?400}}
 Top view:
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 Loosen the screw holding the electronics mount support and swing it back towards the bracket foot, and out of the way.  Then slide the Y axis until it is roughly in the middle of the frame bottom, and slide the Y axis forward or backward until the two hidden screws become visible through the two holes in the Y axis extrusion.  Reach through the holes with your hex driver and tighten the screws.  We will adjust the position of the Y axis later.
+Refer also to the comments [[jitsbuild-y-axis#insert-y-axis-screws|here]] about improving the strength of the Y-axis joint.
 Move the electronics mount support all the way to the left, pointing out the back and perpendicular to the frame bottom.  Tighten that screw.
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 {{wiki:jitsbuild:z-endstop-topview.png?800}}
-Note the nut under the head of the long flat-head screw.
+Note the nut under the head of the long M3 flat-head screw. Unfortunately you may not be able to install this nut if your kit was supplied with an M3 screw which is not threaded along its entire length (and the hole isn't big enough to fit an M4 nut). The purpose of this nut is to prevent the screw from rotating when the adjuster wheel is turned. You may need to use a balldriver to hold the screw in place when making fine Z-axis endstop adjustments if you can't fit the nut.
+As before, you can drill out the smaller hole of the microswitch with a 2.5mm drill so that the screw passes through easily.
 Front view:
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 The above shows one way to use a square to help make the Y axis perpendicular.
+> If you have a Duo you might consider the following idea rather than "centering" your Y-axis (you still want it perpendicular however): With two extruders it is useful to be able purge both hot-ends without having to move the X-axis to each side of the print bed. Unfortunately this is not possible when the Y-axis is positioned in the center of the frame (another 10mm in frame width would have been very useful for the Duo). Instead, to accomplish this you need to:
+>  * position the X axis end-stop all the way to the left of the frame so that the end-stop switch clicks when the X-carriage is around 2-3mm from the frame edge (don't worry the end-stop switch is only used when homing and the X-carriage doesn't approach the stop at high speed; in all other circumstances the controller ensures that the motor is never moved to less than 0 position)
+>  * then position the Y axis so that the nozzle of the right-hand extrude just clears the edge of the Helios heated bed indent (i.e., imagine X represents the nozzle and the line is the edge of the hot bed %%/----\_X___/----\_____/----\%% )
+> This does mean you will lose 5mm off the right-side of your print area for your left extruder //unless// you position you glass slightly to the left of center on the hot bed - which is not a problem for PLA (and you'll get varying results if you try to print right to the edge of the heated bed glass with ABS anyway); however it does mean that you can easily work on both your extruders without having to move the X-carriage around. Remember to set you X-Max in Repetier-Host and Bed Center in Slic3r correctly to avoid hitting the right-hand side of the frame (i.e. set these to 5-6mm less then what they would otherwise be).
 If you ever bang into the printer and jar it, check to make sure the Y axis is still square.  Also check it every time you transport the printer, even if it's only across the room.  This adjustment is the //only// thing keeping the Y axis perpendicular with the X axis.

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