jitsbuild-platform
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jitsbuild-platform [2012/12/14 18:25] jit |
jitsbuild-platform [2014/01/25 17:35] (current) jit |
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| [[jitsbuild-x-axis|Prev: x-axis]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[jitsbuild-extruder|Next: Extruder]] | [[jitsbuild-x-axis|Prev: x-axis]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[jitsbuild-extruder|Next: Extruder]] | ||
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| + | //This page pertains to the Bukobot v1. Some portions may be useful to v2 owners. For more information, see [[jitsbuild|here]].// | ||
| Shown here is the 8" heated platform. The other types of platform assemble in a similar way. | Shown here is the 8" heated platform. The other types of platform assemble in a similar way. | ||
| + | |||
| + | If you have one of the other types of platforms, or if you have the newer endstop mounts, see [[http://forum.bukobot.com/index.php?topic=2792.0|this thread]]. | ||
| If you don't have the heated platform, skip down to [[jitsbuild-platform#mounting the platform|here]]. | If you don't have the heated platform, skip down to [[jitsbuild-platform#mounting the platform|here]]. | ||
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| Get out your heated platform. Leave the glass sheet in its protective packaging. | Get out your heated platform. Leave the glass sheet in its protective packaging. | ||
| + | |||
| + | (You may find an 8"x8" sheet of corrugated paperboard near your glass sheet. That's intended to be used for insulating the bottom of the heated bed.) | ||
| If the lugs aren't already crimped onto one end of the thick red & black zip cord, get out your crimping tool and crimp them on. | If the lugs aren't already crimped onto one end of the thick red & black zip cord, get out your crimping tool and crimp them on. | ||
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| (In some of the images below, the lugs are shown attached to the top of the platform. It is recommended that they be attached to the underside instead, as shown above.) | (In some of the images below, the lugs are shown attached to the top of the platform. It is recommended that they be attached to the underside instead, as shown above.) | ||
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| + | In particular, ensure that the white thermistor cable does not move at all at the point where it is soldered onto the platform (as the platform moves backwards and forwards) otherwise the connection will fail sooner or later at this point. Hence the use of a zip tie in the above picture. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Other warnings: ensure that the you put some tape over the top and bottom of the +ve (+12V) heated bed terminal and over the underside of the heated bed LED and resistor (if either thermistor wire or a grounded wire touches these points then it will permanently damage the Arduino board), also ensure that the -ve terminal does not touch the resistor next to the -ve terminal or it will also damage the LED on the heated bed. | ||
| While you're here, look inside the little hole in the middle of the heated bed: | While you're here, look inside the little hole in the middle of the heated bed: | ||
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| The tiny thermistor should be touching the side of the hole, or really close to it. If necessary, move it closer to the wall of the hole. It must not protrude from the hole. Don't break it. The pre-installed thermistor from Deezmaker is very sensitive, so as long as there is kapton tape (polyimide - the gold tape) covering the bottom and the thermistor is close to the inner wall of the hole, it should be pretty accurate. | The tiny thermistor should be touching the side of the hole, or really close to it. If necessary, move it closer to the wall of the hole. It must not protrude from the hole. Don't break it. The pre-installed thermistor from Deezmaker is very sensitive, so as long as there is kapton tape (polyimide - the gold tape) covering the bottom and the thermistor is close to the inner wall of the hole, it should be pretty accurate. | ||
| - | For best results with some plastics, the heated bed should have a layer of thermal insulation under it. The kit comes with a length of White Thermal Ceramic Insulation Cloth. | + | (A few heated beds shipped out without the thermistor. If you got one of these, contact Deezmaker. You need the thermistor.) |
| + | |||
| + | The heated bed should have a layer of thermal insulation under it. Some kits come with a length of White Thermal Ceramic Insulation Cloth; others may have the corrugated paperboard. You may even have both, though you probably only need one. | ||
| - | Cut this into four equal lengths, about as long as shown below (you may have some left over, which you might find useful on your hot end). Don't cut it so long that it covers the screw holes. Before peeling off the white plastic that covers the adhesive, lay out the insulation to check how you will apply it (see the below image for an example). | + | If you are using the cloth, cut it into four equal lengths, about as long as shown below (you may have some left over, which you might find useful on your hot end). Don't cut it so long that it covers the screw holes. Before peeling off the white plastic that covers the adhesive, lay out the insulation to check how you will apply it (see the below image for an example). |
| The ends of this woven material tend to unravel, so it's recommended that the cut ends be covered with polyimide tape (not shown here) before adding the insulation to the platform. | The ends of this woven material tend to unravel, so it's recommended that the cut ends be covered with polyimide tape (not shown here) before adding the insulation to the platform. | ||
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| {{ :img_2389_-_version_2.jpg?800 |}} | {{ :img_2389_-_version_2.jpg?800 |}} | ||
| - | Detailed documentation of the heated bed insulation on one build can be found [[heated-bed-preparation|here]]. If you come up with something better, please document it there. | + | Detailed documentation of the heated bed insulation on one build can be found [[heated-bed-preparation|here]]. If you come up with something better, please document it there. You can also find the manufacturer's user guide for the Helios Heated Bed [[http://files.panucatt.com/datasheets/helios_user_guide.pdf|here]]. |
| + | |||
| + | So far we don't have pictures of the corrugated paper sheet being used to insulate the underside of the bed. But it seems obvious. | ||
| =====Mounting the Platform===== | =====Mounting the Platform===== | ||
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| Move the Y carriage to the front, and position the platform on top of it. If you have the heated platform, the wires lead out toward the back. | Move the Y carriage to the front, and position the platform on top of it. If you have the heated platform, the wires lead out toward the back. | ||
| - | The center hole at the back end of the platform goes over the standoff at one end of the Y carriage. | + | The center hole at the back end of the platform goes over the standoff at the back end of the Y carriage. |
| Put one spring under each of the long screws: | Put one spring under each of the long screws: | ||
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| {{wiki:jitsbuild:platform-springs.png}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:platform-springs.png}} | ||
| - | Put the short flat-head screw through the hole above the standoff, and screw it down just until you feel just a little resistance. Do not tighten this screw any further. | + | Put the short flat-head screw through the hole above the standoff, and screw it down just until you feel just a little resistance. Do not tighten this screw any further. (When using the printer, check this screw occasionally; it might loosen a bit. Screw it back down, just finger-tight. If you make this screw really tight, it might cause the bed to warp when you level it.) |
| + | |||
| + | (Some printer actions, such as printing fill in thin walls, can move the Y axis back and forth very rapidly, making a buzzing sound. If you do a lot of this, you may find the screws on either end of the standoff getting loose. You might want to consider apply thread locker to these threads if this happens.) | ||
| Push the long screws down through their holes in the metal plate, and screw adjuster wheels onto them on the underside of the platform, with their nuts facing down (the nuts may pop out when you do this, don't lose them): | Push the long screws down through their holes in the metal plate, and screw adjuster wheels onto them on the underside of the platform, with their nuts facing down (the nuts may pop out when you do this, don't lose them): | ||
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| {{wiki:jitsbuild:platform-adjusters.png}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:platform-adjusters.png}} | ||
| - | If you have the heated bed, you should insulate the underside of the heated bed before adding the glass plate (below) to it. If you have tape from the underside folding over to the top surface, it should only extend a few millimeters from the edge, as you don't want the glass plate sitting on top of that; trim the tape back if necessary. Clean the top surface of the heated bed with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry completely, then blow away any lint with canned air. | + | If you have the heated bed, you should insulate the underside of the heated bed before adding the glass plate (described below) to it. If you have tape from the underside folding over to the top surface, it should only extend a few millimeters from the edge, as you don't want the glass plate sitting on top of that; trim the tape back if necessary. Clean the top surface of the heated bed with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry completely, then blow away any lint with canned air. |
| =====Glass Platform Plate===== | =====Glass Platform Plate===== | ||
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| - Set the glass on your main platform, aligning it over the markings so it is centered. Be sure the glass isn't blocking any screws or sitting on the electrical connections in the back or on any tape that might be folding over from the underside | - Set the glass on your main platform, aligning it over the markings so it is centered. Be sure the glass isn't blocking any screws or sitting on the electrical connections in the back or on any tape that might be folding over from the underside | ||
| - Smooth down the ends of the blue tape on the platform | - Smooth down the ends of the blue tape on the platform | ||
| - | - Use small clips to hold the glass in place. If you put the clips over the glass, there's a danger of the extruder head hitting a clip. An alternative that's safer is to put the clips only on the base platform as stops on all four sides. This combined with the tape ends should hold the platform in place. | + | - Use small clips to hold the glass in place. If you put the clips over the glass, there's a danger of the extruder head hitting a clip. An alternative that's safer is to put the clips only on the base platform as stops on all four sides. This combined with the tape ends should hold the platform in place. |
| + | * If you do want hold the glass in place by putting clips on top of the glass then consider these points: | ||
| + | * Putting clips on the rear edges of the glass is fairly safe if you are not printing the full bed depth (and you can reduce your maximum bed depth if you want to make sure you never hit them). | ||
| + | * Putting clips on the front edge of the glass is safe only if you adjust your Y-axis endstop so that the extruder(s) miss the clips when homing in the X direction at "Y=0". | ||
| + | * Putting clips on the right-hand side of the glass is safe if you are not printing the full width of the bed //UNLESS// you have a dual extruder. You should avoid placing clips on the right side of the glass if you have dual extruders. (But if you are using the smallest size of clips, you may not have problems with the hot end hitting the clips; you may find that the hot end just glides over the clip handles, touching them but not catching on them.) | ||
| {{:glass-polyimide-tape.jpg?800|}} | {{:glass-polyimide-tape.jpg?800|}} | ||
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| Mount the glass on the platform. | Mount the glass on the platform. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Also, see [[http://forum.bukobot.com/index.php?topic=3071.msg4628#msg4628|this]]. | ||
| [[jitsbuild-x-axis|Prev: x-axis]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[jitsbuild-extruder|Next: Extruder]] | [[jitsbuild-x-axis|Prev: x-axis]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[jitsbuild-extruder|Next: Extruder]] | ||
| //The contents of this page may be re-used under any of the following licenses: The [[http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/|Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License (CC BY-SA 3.0)]], or the [[http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html|GNU Free Documentation License (GFDL, version 1.2 or later)]]. Nothing on any of these pages is there to tell you what to do, only what other people have already done.// | //The contents of this page may be re-used under any of the following licenses: The [[http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/|Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License (CC BY-SA 3.0)]], or the [[http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html|GNU Free Documentation License (GFDL, version 1.2 or later)]]. Nothing on any of these pages is there to tell you what to do, only what other people have already done.// | ||
jitsbuild-platform.1355531115.txt.gz · Last modified: 2012/12/14 18:25 by jit
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