jitsbuild-tools [Bukobot 3D Printer Instructions & Docs]

======Tools Used In This Build======

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==You may not need all of these, but they sure can come in handy:==

=====Metric Hex Drivers=====

  * 1.5 mm (for tiny setscrews, on the synchromesh pulleys and the Tatsu drive gear)
  * 2 mm   (for M2.5  and M3 screws)
  * 2.5 mm   (for some M4 screws)
  * 3 mm   (for M5 screws, and some M4 screws)
  * 5 mm   (for M8 screws)

(some of the above may come with some kits)

(If possible, get a set of nice metric hex drivers including the above sizes, with proper handles, and preferably with ball ends, if possible with the little rubber nubbin near the end that grabs onto the hexagonal hole and holds the screw firmly. These are also often sold as "Balldriver" hex tools - you can get a good Bondhus set on ebay for around $17US without the rubber nubbin, or a set with the "ProHold" nubbin for around $22.)

{{wiki:jitsbuild:ball-end.png?800}}

(above: little rubber nubbin on the side)

=====Metric Hex Bits=====

Metric hex bits in the above sizes, for use with cordless screwdriver (ball-end versions of these aren't common, but do exist...  but not used in this build;  only the plain straight hex bits were used, and worked fine)

=====Other Tools=====

  * Cordless screwdriver, small, with hex drive
  * Diagonal cutter or side cutter, small
  * Needle files (one with 5 mm width is particularly handy)

{{wiki:jitsbuild:small-files.jpg}}

  * Woodworking chisel, preferably narrow (such as 3/8" or 10mm), as sharp as possible (use with caution)
  * Mallet, small, rubber or plastic
  * Crimping tool (if 12V power and heated bed wires haven't come pre-crimped)
  * Needle nose pliers
  * Small flat-blade screwdriver
  * Combination square, small (or anything else that's square)
  * Ruler
  * Drill and drill bits, various sizes, but mainly:
    * for M2.5 screw:  2.5 mm or 7/64" drill bit
    * for M3 screw:  3 mm or 1/8" drill bit
    * for M4 screw:  4 mm or 5/32" drill bit
    * for M5 screw:  5 mm or 13/64" drill bit
  * Soldering iron and solder, for fixing broken endstop wires (also heatshrink and heat gun, if you want to be thorough with these repairs)
  * Volt/ohm meter
  * Small non-conducting screwdriver, for adjusting power supply voltage
  * Telescoping tool with magnet on the end, for picking up all those tiny parts you will drop
  * A can of soup

=====Materials Used=====

In addition to the items that came in the kit:

  * Big assortment of cable ties (aka zip ties), many colors of the small size, with some larger sizes too
  * Split-seam convoluted tubing, various sizes (but probably not needed if you got the kit that matches the latest BOM)
  * Some extra washers, various sizes
  * Two M5x8mm button-head screws, with matching nuts (for the middle of the dual-extruder X carriage  --  but only for some early adopters, as the latest kits include M5x10mm screws and nuts for this)
  * Thread locker (the blue kind, removeable, medium strength - such as Loctite 243) (nice to have around but many people don't use any)
  * WD-40, for cleaning the (non-threaded) steel rods (make sure you wipe //all// of it off)
  * High quality machine oil, for lubricating linear bearings and precision steel rods (Reprap wiki also mentions using a high viscosity synthetic oil with PTFE such as Super Lube Oil with PTFE) (but you may not need any)
  * Blue painter's tape (not the narrow kind)
  * Isopropyl alcohol, for cleaning things that will have tape stuck to them
  * Glass cleaner, for cleaning the glass plate
  * Canned air, for cleaning various things
  * Binder clips, small, for holding the glass plate in place:

{{wiki:jitsbuild:clips.png}}


[[jitsbuild-x-carriage|Next: X carriage]]


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