jitsbuild-v1-to-v2
|
jitsbuild-v1-to-v2 [2013/11/18 13:53] jit |
jitsbuild-v1-to-v2 [2013/11/20 23:18] (current) jit |
||
|---|---|---|---|
| Line 98: | Line 98: | ||
| Also needed were a number of cable-ties, in various colors and sizes. | Also needed were a number of cable-ties, in various colors and sizes. | ||
| - | Double-check that you have all of the parts shown on this page. Read the entire page carefully before taking anything apart. | + | Double-check that you have all of the parts shown on this page. Read the entire page carefully before taking anything apart, paying particular attention to the hardware re-configuration problem described near the bottom of the page (and on a separate page). |
| You will have to disconnect a number of wires during the upgrade, so make sure your wires are marked. On this particular printer, wires going to the left extruder are marked with white cable ties, and those going to the right extruder are marked with red cable ties. (This convention is inherited from the era of stereo: red is right, white is left.) Marking your wires greatly reduces the probability that you will get them crossed; the printer performs rather poorly if the right-hand thermistor is wired up to the left-hand thermistor circuit. Don't forget to mark the four-wire bundles coming out of the motors. | You will have to disconnect a number of wires during the upgrade, so make sure your wires are marked. On this particular printer, wires going to the left extruder are marked with white cable ties, and those going to the right extruder are marked with red cable ties. (This convention is inherited from the era of stereo: red is right, white is left.) Marking your wires greatly reduces the probability that you will get them crossed; the printer performs rather poorly if the right-hand thermistor is wired up to the left-hand thermistor circuit. Don't forget to mark the four-wire bundles coming out of the motors. | ||
| Line 136: | Line 136: | ||
| If your synchromesh cable has an eyelet attached to one end, you can use it as shown below. Otherwise, you'll need a screw and nut on each side to secure the cable. | If your synchromesh cable has an eyelet attached to one end, you can use it as shown below. Otherwise, you'll need a screw and nut on each side to secure the cable. | ||
| - | Thread the synchromesh cable through various holes in the top carriage plate as shown below (except your plate isn't attached to the linear bearings yet). The first hole is at the lower left in the image below; the hole is located in a narrow slot. The cable goes down through that hole, then up through the hole next to the plastic spacer, and over the spacer. Then under and around the pulley shown, across to the motor pulley, around that pulley, and back to the other side of the carriage plate, over the spacer, down the hole, then up through the other hole that's in a narrow slot. Don't make the cable tight yet. | + | Thread the synchromesh cable through various holes in the top carriage plate as shown below (except your plate isn't attached to the linear bearings yet). The first hole is at the lower left in the image below; the hole is located in a narrow slot. The cable goes down through that hole, then up through the hole next to the plastic spacer, and over the spacer. Then under and around the pulley shown, across to the motor pulley, around that pulley, and back to the other side of the carriage plate, over the spacer, down the hole, then up through the other hole that's in a narrow slot. Don't make the cable tight yet; leave it loose enough so that is easy to slip the cable off of the pulleys. |
| Secure one end of the cable to the plate. If you have the eyelet, secure that end. Take all the slack out of that end and shove the cable up the slot as far as it will go; the slot will hold it firmly in place. If you don't have the eyelet, insert a small screw through that hole and put a nut on it and tighten. | Secure one end of the cable to the plate. If you have the eyelet, secure that end. Take all the slack out of that end and shove the cable up the slot as far as it will go; the slot will hold it firmly in place. If you don't have the eyelet, insert a small screw through that hole and put a nut on it and tighten. | ||
| - | Hold the plate upside down and let the loop of cable dangle, just as you did when you first assembled the printer. It should hang in a plane, as before; if it twists up, untwist it. | + | Slip the cable off the pulleys. Hold the plate upside down and let the loop of cable dangle toward the floor, just as you did when you first assembled the printer. It should hang in a plane, as before; if it twists up, untwist it. |
| Set the new top carriage plate on top of the linear bearings, line the little tabs up with the notches in the linear bearings, put the screw through the hole, hold the bottom plate under the linear bearings, hold the nut under the hole in the bottom plate, line up the screw and the nut and tighten. Look under the bottom plate to make sure the linear bearings are lined up with the tiny tabs in the plate. When everything is lined up and tightened, loop the cable loosely around the pulleys. You will tension the cable later. Now you can slide the new carriage back and forth and enjoy. | Set the new top carriage plate on top of the linear bearings, line the little tabs up with the notches in the linear bearings, put the screw through the hole, hold the bottom plate under the linear bearings, hold the nut under the hole in the bottom plate, line up the screw and the nut and tighten. Look under the bottom plate to make sure the linear bearings are lined up with the tiny tabs in the plate. When everything is lined up and tightened, loop the cable loosely around the pulleys. You will tension the cable later. Now you can slide the new carriage back and forth and enjoy. | ||
| Line 146: | Line 146: | ||
| {{wiki:jitsbuild:v2upgrade-xcarriage-beforeextruders.png}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:v2upgrade-xcarriage-beforeextruders.png}} | ||
| - | Sight along the lower portion of the cable and observe that the pulleys and the cable spacers don't line up. They should line up fairly well in the Z direction, provided you've got the correct spacers, but they need tweaking in the Y direction. The pulley on the motor shaft can be moved easily by loosening its set screw, but the other pulley needs spacers: | + | Sight along the lower portion of the cable and observe that the pulleys and the cable spacers don't line up. They should line up fairly well in the Z direction, provided you've got the correct spacers, but they need adjustment in the Y direction. The pulley on the motor shaft can be moved easily by loosening its set screw, but the other pulley needs spacers: |
| {{wiki:jitsbuild:v2upgrade-x-idler-spacers.png}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:v2upgrade-x-idler-spacers.png}} | ||
| Line 156: | Line 156: | ||
| When you've got the spacing pretty close, take most of the slack out of the cable and re-check the cable alignment. Slide the X carriage to both extremes and double-check the alignment, sighting along the length of the cable and measuring too. When the alignment is accurate, take all remaining slack out of the cable. Don't forget the short stretches of cable that run below the top plate. Pull the cable as tight as you can, until you can strum it. Then secure the other end by shoving it up its slot and inserting a screw and nut as described before. If you have a lot of loose cable hanging out, wrap it around the plastic support to use it up and then secure the free end in the narrow slot next to the plastic support. | When you've got the spacing pretty close, take most of the slack out of the cable and re-check the cable alignment. Slide the X carriage to both extremes and double-check the alignment, sighting along the length of the cable and measuring too. When the alignment is accurate, take all remaining slack out of the cable. Don't forget the short stretches of cable that run below the top plate. Pull the cable as tight as you can, until you can strum it. Then secure the other end by shoving it up its slot and inserting a screw and nut as described before. If you have a lot of loose cable hanging out, wrap it around the plastic support to use it up and then secure the free end in the narrow slot next to the plastic support. | ||
| - | Slide the carriage back and forth, looking for interferences and alignment issues. | + | Slide the carriage back and forth, looking for interferences and alignment issues. Adjust the pulleys again if necessary. |
| + | |||
| + | The next several photos are taken from the front of the printer. | ||
| ==== Assemble the new extruder(s) ==== | ==== Assemble the new extruder(s) ==== | ||
| Line 191: | Line 193: | ||
| Note that the lever assembly has to be positioned correctly before the extruder is assembled, otherwise its bearing will be on the wrong side of the Tatsu drive gear. The bearing at the end of the lever assembly will be positioned over the hole where the filament enters the hot-end assembly. | Note that the lever assembly has to be positioned correctly before the extruder is assembled, otherwise its bearing will be on the wrong side of the Tatsu drive gear. The bearing at the end of the lever assembly will be positioned over the hole where the filament enters the hot-end assembly. | ||
| - | Next, place the hot-end assembly between the two red plates, with the nozzle oriented toward the right for the left-hand extruder. Put the two long screws through the fan and the fan spacer, then through one red plate, then the hot-end assembly, then the other red plate. | + | Next, place the hot-end assembly between the two red plates, with the nozzle oriented toward the right for the left-hand extruder. Put the two long screws through the fan and the fan spacer bracket, then through one red plate, then the hot-end assembly, then the other red plate. |
| - | Note the orientation of the fan. The label on the hub of the fan faces toward the motor. There is no direction-of-flow arrow marked on the fan. The corner of the fan where the wires emerge should be next to the big hole in the fan spacer. | + | Note the orientation of the fan. The label on the hub of the fan faces toward the motor. There is no direction-of-flow arrow marked on the fan. The corner of the fan where the wires emerge should be next to the big hole in the fan spacer bracket. |
| Add two nuts to hold this assembly together. | Add two nuts to hold this assembly together. | ||
| Line 203: | Line 205: | ||
| - | Below, two extruders have been assembled and attached to the carriage. Each assembly is held in place by tightening its M6x12mm bolt, underneath the top plate. You can reach the M6 bolt with a ball-end hex driver if you slide the platform all the way back and slide the X carriage all the way to one side, provided you raised the X axis enough before you started. | + | Below, two extruders have been assembled and attached to the carriage. Each assembly is held in place by tightening its M6x12mm bolt, underneath the top plate. You can reach the M6 bolt with a 5mm ball-end hex driver if you slide the platform all the way back and slide the X carriage all the way to one side, provided you raised the X axis enough before you started. |
| {{wiki:jitsbuild:v2upgrade-assemble5.png}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:v2upgrade-assemble5.png}} | ||
| Line 214: | Line 216: | ||
| Hook up the thermistor(s) and fan(s) to their correct terminals. If you have two fans, they connect in parallel. Fan wires are polarized, red for + and black for -. | Hook up the thermistor(s) and fan(s) to their correct terminals. If you have two fans, they connect in parallel. Fan wires are polarized, red for + and black for -. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Photo taken from the back of the printer: | ||
| {{wiki:jitsbuild:v2upgrade-assemble6.png}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:v2upgrade-assemble6.png}} | ||
| Line 235: | Line 239: | ||
| Double-check that the heater wires and the thermistor wires go to the right places. We marked them red and white so that they wouldn't get mixed up. | Double-check that the heater wires and the thermistor wires go to the right places. We marked them red and white so that they wouldn't get mixed up. | ||
| - | Finally, adjust the Z endstop. Here's the quick and dangerous way: | + | ==== Make height adjustments ==== |
| - | Slide the platform all the way forward. Slide the X carriage until the nozzle(s) are centered above the rear of the platform. | + | Turn the Z endstop adjustment wheel until it is in the middle of its range. The Z endstop holder should be all the way down on the frame as far as it can go, and loose. Move it down there if it's not there already. |
| - | Turn the Z endstop adjustment wheel until it is in the middle of its range. | + | You need to lower your X axis until the nozzle(s) are almost touching the platform. However, because your extruder is now more compact, you may not be able to go down that far before a collision occurs somewhere else. |
| - | Connect the USB cable, power up the printer, and connect your host software. Don't home anything yet. | + | It is possible that the UHMW nuts supporting the Z carriage might collide with the pieces that join the Z axis motor shafts with the Z axis threaded rod. Or, a collision might occur with some other parts near there. This is to be avoided. |
| + | |||
| + | Temporarily remove each extruder from the top of the X carriage and set it down on top of the carriage, with nothing protruding below the X carriage: Use your 5mm hex driver to loosen the M6 bolt, slide the extruder forward, lift it up a bit and slide it back, resting the nozzle tip on the top plate of the X carriage. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Connect the USB cable, power up the printer, and connect your host software. Don't home anything. Don't move anything other than Z. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Use your host software to move Z down, a millimeter at a time, until a collision is about to occur somewhere. When you reach the point of imminent collision, disconnect your host software and power down the printer. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Now try to re-install your extruder(s). If you can install an extruder without hitting the platform with the nozzle, then you will have to move some things around on your printer. Because v1 Bukobots vary, you will have to determine how to reconfigure your particular printer. You need to be able to move the Z carriage down farther, so the nozzle can reach the platform (or perhaps raise the platform?). This may be the most complicated part of this entire upgrade. | ||
| + | |||
| + | This subject is complicated enough to justify [[jitsbuild-v1-to-v2-verticaladjustment|its own page]]. Go there now and then come back here. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Once you have reconfigured the printer, try the above procedure again. If you can lower the Z carriage far enough so that you can't re-install the extruder(s) because the platform gets in the way of the nozzle, then you can proceed to the next steps. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Connect the USB cable, power up the printer, and connect your host software. Don't home anything. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Raise your Z carriage far enough that you can re-install the extruder(s) without a nozzle hitting the platform. Power down, and install the extruder(s). | ||
| + | |||
| + | Slide the platform all the way forward. Slide the X carriage until the nozzle(s) are centered above the rear of the platform. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Once again, connect the USB cable, power up the printer, and connect your host software. Don't home anything. | ||
| Put one finger on the Z endstop switch. Be prepared to quickly click that switch twice. | Put one finger on the Z endstop switch. Be prepared to quickly click that switch twice. | ||
| - | Now you are living dangerously. Instruct your host software to home the Z axis only. Watch the nozzles descend toward the platform, and click the endstop switch twice right before the collision. | + | Now you are living dangerously. You will instruct your host software to home the Z axis only, and watch the nozzles descend toward the platform, and click the endstop switch twice right before the collision. |
| - | Slide the Z endstop holder up the frame until the switch clicks. Tighten the M5 screw to secure the endstop holder. | + | Slide the Z endstop holder up the frame until the switch clicks. Tighten the M5 screw to secure the endstop holder. The endstop holder may try to move around while you're tightening that screw; don't let it. |
| Tell your host software to move up one centimeter, then home Z again. It should stop just above the platform. Note the distance between the nozzles and the platform. | Tell your host software to move up one centimeter, then home Z again. It should stop just above the platform. Note the distance between the nozzles and the platform. | ||
| - | Move it up again, turn the adjustment wheel enough to raise the endstop switch by half that distance. Home Z again, note the distance. Repeat. | + | Move it up again, turn the adjustment wheel enough to raise the endstop switch by half that distance. Home Z again, note the distance. Repeat until it's right. |
| - | + | ||
| - | Until it's right. | + | |
| ==== Software settings ==== | ==== Software settings ==== | ||
jitsbuild-v1-to-v2.1384804411.txt.gz · Last modified: 2013/11/18 13:53 by jit
Page Tools
Except where otherwise noted, content on this wiki is licensed under the following license: CC Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported
