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jitsbuild-v1-to-v2

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jitsbuild-v1-to-v2 [2013/11/18 14:21]
jit
jitsbuild-v1-to-v2 [2013/11/20 23:18] (current)
jit
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 Also needed were a number of cable-ties, in various colors and sizes. Also needed were a number of cable-ties, in various colors and sizes.
  
-Double-check that you have all of the parts shown on this page.  Read the entire page carefully before taking anything apart.+Double-check that you have all of the parts shown on this page.  Read the entire page carefully before taking anything apart, paying particular attention to the hardware re-configuration problem described near the bottom of the page (and on a separate page).
  
 You will have to disconnect a number of wires during the upgrade, so make sure your wires are marked. ​ On this particular printer, wires going to the left extruder are marked with white cable ties, and those going to the right extruder are marked with red cable ties.  (This convention is inherited from the era of stereo: ​ red is right, white is left.) ​ Marking your wires greatly reduces the probability that you will get them crossed; ​ the printer performs rather poorly if the right-hand thermistor is wired up to the left-hand thermistor circuit. ​ Don't forget to mark the four-wire bundles coming out of the motors. You will have to disconnect a number of wires during the upgrade, so make sure your wires are marked. ​ On this particular printer, wires going to the left extruder are marked with white cable ties, and those going to the right extruder are marked with red cable ties.  (This convention is inherited from the era of stereo: ​ red is right, white is left.) ​ Marking your wires greatly reduces the probability that you will get them crossed; ​ the printer performs rather poorly if the right-hand thermistor is wired up to the left-hand thermistor circuit. ​ Don't forget to mark the four-wire bundles coming out of the motors.
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 Double-check that the heater wires and the thermistor wires go to the right places. ​ We marked them red and white so that they wouldn'​t get mixed up. Double-check that the heater wires and the thermistor wires go to the right places. ​ We marked them red and white so that they wouldn'​t get mixed up.
  
-Finally, adjust the Z endstop. ​ Here's the quick and dangerous way:+==== Make height adjustments ====
  
-Slide the platform all the way forward.  ​Slide the X carriage until the nozzle(s) are centered above the rear of the platform.+Turn the Z endstop adjustment wheel until it is in the middle of its range.  ​The Z endstop holder should be all the way down on the frame as far as it can go, and loose. ​ Move it down there if it'not there already.
  
-Turn the Z endstop adjustment wheel until it is in the middle of its range.+You need to lower your X axis until the nozzle(s) are almost touching the platform. ​ However, because your extruder is now more compact, you may not be able to go down that far before a collision occurs somewhere else.
  
-Connect the USB cable, power up the printer, and connect your host software. ​ Don't home anything ​yet.+It is possible that the UHMW nuts supporting the Z carriage might collide with the pieces that join the Z axis motor shafts with the Z axis threaded rod.  Or, a collision might occur with some other parts near there. ​ This is to be avoided. 
 + 
 +Temporarily remove each extruder from the top of the X carriage and set it down on top of the carriage, with nothing protruding below the X carriage: ​ Use your 5mm hex driver to loosen the M6 bolt, slide the extruder forward, lift it up a bit and slide it back, resting the nozzle tip on the top plate of the X carriage. 
 + 
 +Connect the USB cable, power up the printer, and connect your host software. ​ Don't home anything.  Don't move anything other than Z. 
 + 
 +Use your host software to move Z down, a millimeter at a time, until a collision is about to occur somewhere. ​ When you reach the point of imminent collision, disconnect your host software and power down the printer. 
 + 
 +Now try to re-install your extruder(s). ​ If you can install an extruder without hitting the platform with the nozzle, then you will have to move some things around on your printer. ​ Because v1 Bukobots vary, you will have to determine how to reconfigure your particular printer. ​ You need to be able to move the Z carriage down farther, so the nozzle can reach the platform (or perhaps raise the platform?​). ​ This may be the most complicated part of this entire upgrade. 
 + 
 +This subject is complicated enough to justify [[jitsbuild-v1-to-v2-verticaladjustment|its own page]]. ​ Go there now and then come back here. 
 + 
 +Once you have reconfigured the printer, try the above procedure again. ​ If you can lower the Z carriage far enough so that you can't re-install the extruder(s) because the platform gets in the way of the nozzle, then you can proceed to the next steps. 
 + 
 +Connect the USB cable, power up the printer, and connect your host software. ​ Don't home anything. 
 + 
 +Raise your Z carriage far enough that you can re-install the extruder(s) without a nozzle hitting the platform. ​ Power down, and install the extruder(s). 
 + 
 +Slide the platform all the way forward. ​ Slide the X carriage until the nozzle(s) are centered above the rear of the platform. 
 + 
 +Once again, connect the USB cable, power up the printer, and connect your host software. ​ Don't home anything.
  
 Put one finger on the Z endstop switch. ​ Be prepared to quickly click that switch twice. Put one finger on the Z endstop switch. ​ Be prepared to quickly click that switch twice.
  
-Now you are living dangerously.  ​Instruct ​your host software to home the Z axis only.  Watch the nozzles descend toward the platform, and click the endstop switch twice right before the collision.+Now you are living dangerously.  ​You will instruct ​your host software to home the Z axis only, and watch the nozzles descend toward the platform, and click the endstop switch twice right before the collision.
  
-Slide the Z endstop holder up the frame until the switch clicks. ​ Tighten the M5 screw to secure the endstop holder.+Slide the Z endstop holder up the frame until the switch clicks. ​ Tighten the M5 screw to secure the endstop holder.  The endstop holder may try to move around while you're tightening that screw; ​ don't let it.
  
 Tell your host software to move up one centimeter, then home Z again. ​ It should stop just above the platform. ​ Note the distance between the nozzles and the platform. Tell your host software to move up one centimeter, then home Z again. ​ It should stop just above the platform. ​ Note the distance between the nozzles and the platform.
  
-Move it up again, turn the adjustment wheel enough to raise the endstop switch by half that distance. ​ Home Z again, note the distance. ​ Repeat+Move it up again, turn the adjustment wheel enough to raise the endstop switch by half that distance. ​ Home Z again, note the distance. ​ Repeat ​until it's right.
- +
-Until it's right.+
  
 ==== Software settings ==== ==== Software settings ====
jitsbuild-v1-to-v2.1384806098.txt.gz · Last modified: 2013/11/18 14:21 by jit