jitsbuild-wires [Bukobot 3D Printer Instructions & Docs]

Link to this comparison view

--- jitsbuild-wires [2012/12/12 11:51]
pvanallen notes on newer fan mount
+++ jitsbuild-wires [2014/01/25 17:44] (current)
jit
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 ======jit's build:  Wires======
-[[jitsbuild-extruder|Prev:  Extruder]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[flight-check|Next: Flight Check]]
+[[jitsbuild-extruder|Prev:  Extruder]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[jitsbuild-failure-conditions|Next: Failure conditions to watch out for]]
+//This page pertains to the Bukobot v1.  Some portions may be useful to v2 owners.  For more information, see [[jitsbuild|here]].//
 If there are any motors or endstops that aren't installed right now, install them.  The adjustment procedure for the Y axis endstop is [[jitsbuild-y-axis#adjust endstop|here]] (read the whole procedure before starting);  the X axis endstop is adjusted in a similar way.  All of the endstops will probably need to be adjusted at least once more after this.
@@ Line 12: / Line 13: @@
 {{wiki:jitsbuild:fan-mount.png}}
-Make sure the fan will blow toward the extruder.  There is an arrow on the edge of the fan.  The wires should point toward the rear. Note that newer kits include a slightly different fan mount piece that has three different sets of mounting holes for the fan, allowing it to be positioned higher or lower for achieving the optimal cooling effect (lower = more cooling, higher = less).
+Make sure the fan will blow toward the extruder.  There is an arrow on the edge of the fan.  The wires should point toward the rear.
+Note that newer kits include a slightly different fan mount piece that has three different sets of mounting holes for the fan, allowing it to be positioned higher or lower for achieving the optimal cooling effect (lower = more cooling, higher = less).
 {{wiki:jitsbuild:fan-mounted.png?800}}
@@ Line 21: / Line 24: @@
 {{:fan-right.jpg?800|}}
+If you have a Duo kit and only one fan mount was included or you have lost or broken it, then a makeshift fan mount can be made with zip ties or metal wire. You should have some ties left over, but if you use the zip ties from the kit, you will need four of them since they are short. The next two images show how the 2nd fan can be attached using four zip ties.
+{{wiki:jitsbuild:zip-tie-fan-1.jpg?800}}
+{{wiki:jitsbuild:zip-tie-fan-2.jpg?800}}
 Next we connect wires to the terminal block.  But first, check to make sure you have correctly identified the wires coming from the heater block:
@@ Line 144: / Line 153: @@
 Here, the wires from the right Z axis motor and endstop (seen here on the left) have been bundled together, and the wires from the Y axis motor and endstop have been bundled together.  You could bundle all those wires together in one piece of tubing if you prefer.
+Another idea is to use the channels in the aluminium extrusions to conceal these wires. The channel along the bottom of the frame can be used to hide the left-hand Z motor cable and Z endstop cable (optionally if you desolder and resolder the endstop cable you can even conveniently feed this down through the channel between the side and bottom frame pieces). Similarly the underside of the Y axis and then the rear channel of the bottom frame piece can be used to route the Y axis motor and Y endstop cables over to the Azteeg controller. A few balls of Blu-tac are a good way of holding the cables inside the channel.
+This can be seen here: [[alternative-wiring-ideas|Alternative Wiring Ideas]]
 {{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed2.png?800}}
@@ Line 160: / Line 172: @@
 Here, all of the bundles have been brought together at one point, under the controller, and attached together with a cable tie (excluding the wires from the left Z axis motor, not visible here).  The big bundle from the X axis approaches from the right, and the other bundles from the left;  this helps to keep the bundles oriented appropriately as things move around while printing.  The bundle from the heated platform (which you may not have) has been placed on top of the other two coming from the left, so that it can move freely.
+Another idea to keep the platform cable from getting caught is to anchor it to Y-axis motor piece, as described here: [[alternative-wiring-ideas|Alternative Wiring Ideas]]
 {{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed2c.png?800}}
@@ Line 179: / Line 193: @@
 Left to right, these pairs are:
-  * Hot end #1 heater
+  * Hot end #1 heater (if you have two extruder then this is the the lefthand extruder when viewed from the front)
-  * Hot end #2 heater (absent if you don't have a #2)
+  * Hot end #2 heater (absent if you don't have a second extruder, otherwise the righthand extruder)
   * Heater platform (absent if you don't have one)
   * 12V (and perhaps the fan wires from the X carriage)
@@ Line 192: / Line 206: @@
 The correct placement of the thermistor connectors is hard to see in the following images.  According the Azteeg docs, they connect like this:
-  * E0: Hot end #1
+  * E0: Hot end #1 (lefthand extruder)
   * E1: Heated bed
-  * E2: Hot end #2
+  * E2: Hot end #2 (righthand extruder)
-For the Azteeg X1, check the docs.
+For the Azteeg X1, check the documentation.
+Note that the motor connectors on the X1 are plugged in the opposite way from the orientation on the X3.  The X3 orientation is shown below:
 {{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed5.png?800}}
-Some of the wires are much longer than others.  Those are looped around and secured with cable ties, and hidden away under the controller.  There are lots of ways of doing this.  Here's one way:
+Some of the wires are much longer than others.  Those can be looped around and secured with cable ties or other means, and hidden away under the controller.  There are lots of ways of doing this.  Here's one way:
-{{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed5a.png?800}}
+{{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed5a.png}}
-Here, most of the slack from the right has been pulled under the electronics mount and dragged out to the left, and most of the slack from the left has been pulled under the electronics mount and dragged out to the right.  A single cable tie has been wrapped around both bunches.
+Here, most of the slack from the right has been pulled under the electronics mount and dragged out to the left, and most of the slack from the left has been pulled under the electronics mount and dragged out to the right.  A reusable cable wrap has been wrapped around both bunches.  (You could use cable ties here instead, but if you are like many of us you will re-build and re-configure your printer often, so the reusable kind is preferred.)
-Then, any loops extending beyond the sides of the electronics mount after that are folded back under the mount again, and all is wrapped with a larger cable tie:
+Then, any loops extending beyond the sides of the electronics mount after that are folded back under the mount again, and all is wrapped again:
-{{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed5b.png?800}}
+{{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed5b.png}}
 Continue this process until the excess slack is tucked away under the controller.
@@ Line 214: / Line 230: @@
 Top view:
-{{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed5c.png?800}}
+{{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed5c.png}}
+You can use the same cable wrap to bind this bunch of wire to the underside of the electronics mount if you wish.
 You may find that rather than being excessively long, some of the wires are simply too short.  In this case, the two thermistor pairs from the dual extruder just barely make it to the controller.  You can go to a lot of trouble re-arranging the wires to improve this, but you can also simply extend these wires by splicing a bit more wire to the ends that attach to the X carriage.  This will probably be done to this printer, eventually.
+(The motor connectors shown on some of following images may be connected backwards.)
+There is probably more tidying up you can do at this point.  For example, the bundle that goes from the X carriage to the X left end is tending to sag here:
+{{wiki:jitsbuild:bundle-sag1.png?800}}
+We can discourage this sagging with some cable ties (these are two medium-size black ones):
+{{wiki:jitsbuild:bundle-sag2.png?800}}
+{{wiki:jitsbuild:bundle-sag3.png?800}}
 Finally, find the power supply.  Look on the side of the power supply;  there is a 115V/230V switch.  Set it for the voltage used in your location.
@@ Line 238: / Line 268: @@
 Now unplug the power, and wait for a bit before doing anything else.
-Connect the wire leading from the controller to the power supply (you did unplug the power supply, right?).  Polarity is important.  Red goes to +V, black goes to -V.
+Connect the wire leading from the controller to the power supply (you did unplug the power supply, right?).  Polarity is important.  Red goes to +V, black goes to -V:
+{{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed6.png?800}}
+You should cover the terminals on the power supply somehow.  Here, a transparent piece of plastic (cut from one example of that horrible, impossible-to-open plastic packaging that everyone hates) has been taped over as a temporary shield:
+{{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed7.png}}
+(A better shield could be made and installed, if only you had a 3D printer.  Oh, wait...)
+A number of suggested printable power supply covers can be found here: [[http://bukobot.com/user-created-add-ons#printable-mods|here]] Future Bukobot kits will also include a simple terminal cover for initial use.
 Double-check that all of the polarized wiring is correct, both on the Azteeg and on the X carriage and the heated bed.
@@ Line 246: / Line 286: @@
 Do not power up a stepper driver that has no motor connected to it.  If you have a motor not hooked up, for example an extruder motor, remove its stepper driver before powering up the Azteeg (unless you are powering the Azteeg solely through its USB connection, in which case it's okay).
-Move the X carriage and the Y carriage back and forth, all the way, to make sure the bundles of wires are long enough and there are no interferences anywhere.  Look on all sides and underneath while you move them.
+Check that the motor connectors on the Azteeg are oriented the correct way.  Images above (the ones that aren't wrong) show the connections for the X3;  for the X1, they go the other way.  Note that sometimes motor connectors are wired differently at the factory, and will cause things to move backwards;  if you see this behavior, you can correct it by flipping the connector over.
-Check that the synchromesh cable doesn't touch anything anywhere that it's not supposed to.  This includes the free end(s) of the cable;  if necessary, use cable ties to keep the free ends out of trouble.
+Move the X carriage and the Y carriage back and forth, all the way, to make sure the bundles of wires are long enough and there are no interferences anywhere.  Look on all sides and underneath while you move them.  Check that the bundle connecting to the heated platform doesn't rub against the Y back end.  Check that the bundle connecting to the X axis doesn't rub against the Z axis couplers.
+Check that the synchromesh cables don't touch anything anywhere that they are not supposed to.  This includes the free end(s) of the cables;  if necessary, use cable ties to keep the free ends out of trouble.
 You can check the movement of the Z axis later, when you power up the printer.  If you didn't take the thickness of the glass sheet into account when you checked the platform clearances earlier, the X axis may have to be raised to clear it when you add the glass sheet.
@@ Line 257: / Line 299: @@
 Remember that some of the linear bearing holders don't have cable ties on them yet.  You should put cable ties on all of them after you have finish aligning everything and doing your first test prints.  You will be reminded later.
-The [[heated-bed-preparation|preparation of the top surface of the bed]], which may include placing a glass sheet on top, has not been described yet.  Also not documented very well so far is the application of polyimide tape to each hot end heater block for thermal management (but see [[hot-end-thermal-management|here]]).  Ways of shielding the high-voltage components need to be documented.  Improvements to these parts of the documentation are still needed.
 As of this writing, these pages are still changing.  Some things may have changed after you went past them.  If you didn't subscribe to the wiki change subscription service, you may not have heard, and should probably [[jitsbuild|go back]] and read all the pages again.
+{{wiki:jitsbuild:rearview.png?800}}
 {{wiki:jitsbuild:build-complete.png?800}}
@@ Line 266: / Line 308: @@
 Excluding the other things noted above, the physical build is now complete.
-[[jitsbuild-extruder|Prev:  Extruder]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[flight-check|Next: Flight Check]]
+[[jitsbuild-extruder|Prev:  Extruder]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[jitsbuild-failure-conditions|Next: Failure conditions to watch out for]]
 //The contents of this page may be re-used under any of the following licenses:  The [[http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/|Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License (CC BY-SA 3.0)]], or the [[http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html|GNU Free Documentation License (GFDL, version 1.2 or later)]].  Nothing on any of these pages is there to tell you what to do, only what other people have already done.//

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