jitsbuild-wires
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jitsbuild-wires [2013/01/16 07:15] buildrob |
jitsbuild-wires [2014/01/25 17:44] (current) jit |
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| [[jitsbuild-extruder|Prev: Extruder]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[jitsbuild-failure-conditions|Next: Failure conditions to watch out for]] | [[jitsbuild-extruder|Prev: Extruder]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[jitsbuild-failure-conditions|Next: Failure conditions to watch out for]] | ||
| + | //This page pertains to the Bukobot v1. Some portions may be useful to v2 owners. For more information, see [[jitsbuild|here]].// | ||
| If there are any motors or endstops that aren't installed right now, install them. The adjustment procedure for the Y axis endstop is [[jitsbuild-y-axis#adjust endstop|here]] (read the whole procedure before starting); the X axis endstop is adjusted in a similar way. All of the endstops will probably need to be adjusted at least once more after this. | If there are any motors or endstops that aren't installed right now, install them. The adjustment procedure for the Y axis endstop is [[jitsbuild-y-axis#adjust endstop|here]] (read the whole procedure before starting); the X axis endstop is adjusted in a similar way. All of the endstops will probably need to be adjusted at least once more after this. | ||
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| Another idea is to use the channels in the aluminium extrusions to conceal these wires. The channel along the bottom of the frame can be used to hide the left-hand Z motor cable and Z endstop cable (optionally if you desolder and resolder the endstop cable you can even conveniently feed this down through the channel between the side and bottom frame pieces). Similarly the underside of the Y axis and then the rear channel of the bottom frame piece can be used to route the Y axis motor and Y endstop cables over to the Azteeg controller. A few balls of Blu-tac are a good way of holding the cables inside the channel. | Another idea is to use the channels in the aluminium extrusions to conceal these wires. The channel along the bottom of the frame can be used to hide the left-hand Z motor cable and Z endstop cable (optionally if you desolder and resolder the endstop cable you can even conveniently feed this down through the channel between the side and bottom frame pieces). Similarly the underside of the Y axis and then the rear channel of the bottom frame piece can be used to route the Y axis motor and Y endstop cables over to the Azteeg controller. A few balls of Blu-tac are a good way of holding the cables inside the channel. | ||
| + | This can be seen here: [[alternative-wiring-ideas|Alternative Wiring Ideas]] | ||
| {{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed2.png?800}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed2.png?800}} | ||
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| Here, all of the bundles have been brought together at one point, under the controller, and attached together with a cable tie (excluding the wires from the left Z axis motor, not visible here). The big bundle from the X axis approaches from the right, and the other bundles from the left; this helps to keep the bundles oriented appropriately as things move around while printing. The bundle from the heated platform (which you may not have) has been placed on top of the other two coming from the left, so that it can move freely. | Here, all of the bundles have been brought together at one point, under the controller, and attached together with a cable tie (excluding the wires from the left Z axis motor, not visible here). The big bundle from the X axis approaches from the right, and the other bundles from the left; this helps to keep the bundles oriented appropriately as things move around while printing. The bundle from the heated platform (which you may not have) has been placed on top of the other two coming from the left, so that it can move freely. | ||
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| + | Another idea to keep the platform cable from getting caught is to anchor it to Y-axis motor piece, as described here: [[alternative-wiring-ideas|Alternative Wiring Ideas]] | ||
| {{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed2c.png?800}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:wiring-tamed2c.png?800}} | ||
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| Left to right, these pairs are: | Left to right, these pairs are: | ||
| - | * Hot end #1 heater | + | * Hot end #1 heater (if you have two extruder then this is the the lefthand extruder when viewed from the front) |
| - | * Hot end #2 heater (absent if you don't have a #2) | + | * Hot end #2 heater (absent if you don't have a second extruder, otherwise the righthand extruder) |
| * Heater platform (absent if you don't have one) | * Heater platform (absent if you don't have one) | ||
| * 12V (and perhaps the fan wires from the X carriage) | * 12V (and perhaps the fan wires from the X carriage) | ||
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| The correct placement of the thermistor connectors is hard to see in the following images. According the Azteeg docs, they connect like this: | The correct placement of the thermistor connectors is hard to see in the following images. According the Azteeg docs, they connect like this: | ||
| - | * E0: Hot end #1 | + | * E0: Hot end #1 (lefthand extruder) |
| * E1: Heated bed | * E1: Heated bed | ||
| - | * E2: Hot end #2 | + | * E2: Hot end #2 (righthand extruder) |
| For the Azteeg X1, check the documentation. | For the Azteeg X1, check the documentation. | ||
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| (A better shield could be made and installed, if only you had a 3D printer. Oh, wait...) | (A better shield could be made and installed, if only you had a 3D printer. Oh, wait...) | ||
| - | Improved power supply shielding is a matter of active discussion. See [[http://forum.bukobot.com/index.php?topic=94|here]]. | + | A number of suggested printable power supply covers can be found here: [[http://bukobot.com/user-created-add-ons#printable-mods|here]] Future Bukobot kits will also include a simple terminal cover for initial use. |
| Double-check that all of the polarized wiring is correct, both on the Azteeg and on the X carriage and the heated bed. | Double-check that all of the polarized wiring is correct, both on the Azteeg and on the X carriage and the heated bed. | ||
jitsbuild-wires.1358342136.txt.gz · Last modified: 2013/01/16 07:15 by buildrob
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