jitsbuild-y-carriage
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jitsbuild-y-carriage [2012/11/16 15:41] jit |
jitsbuild-y-carriage [2014/01/25 17:41] (current) jit |
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| - | ===jit's build: Y carriage=== | + | ======jit's build: Y carriage====== |
| - | (Go back up to [[jitsbuild|jit's build]]) | + | [[jitsbuild-y-frontend|Prev: Y front end]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[jitsbuild-y-axis|Next: Y axis]] |
| - | You will need: | + | //This page pertains to the Bukobot v1. Some portions may be useful to v2 owners. For more information, see [[jitsbuild|here]].// |
| - | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-commonparts-kit.png}} | + | =====Parts==== |
| - | Note: The Bukobots smaller than 8" have a different carriage design. The Y carriage is a single piece of flat aluminum, and not four pieces that have to be assembled together and aligned; also, the kit shown above may be different. If you have this smaller carriage, skip down to [[jitsbuild-y-carriage#completing carriage|here]]. | + | You will need from [[bukobot-parts-list#y-carriage|bag 14]]: |
| + | |||
| + | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-commonparts-kit.png?600}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | Note: The Bukobots smaller than 8" have a different carriage design. The Y carriage is a single piece of flat aluminum (the "Y carriage Y-Plate"), and not four pieces that have to be assembled together and aligned; also, the kit shown above may be different. If you have this smaller carriage, skip down to [[jitsbuild-y-carriage#completing-the-y-carriage|here]]. | ||
| + | |||
| + | =====8" Carriage===== | ||
| These four pieces of aluminum are needed: | These four pieces of aluminum are needed: | ||
| - | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-aluminum.png}} | + | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-aluminum.png?800}} |
| Note that there is another straight aluminum piece of the same length in your kit, but with a hole drilled near one end. You don't want that one now. | Note that there is another straight aluminum piece of the same length in your kit, but with a hole drilled near one end. You don't want that one now. | ||
| - | Start by putting the 8mm screws into the flat parts: | + | =====T-Plate & U-Plate Screws===== |
| - | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-metal1.png}} | + | Start by putting the 8mm screws (the shorter screws in the bag) into the slotted holes in the flat parts as shown: |
| - | Their heads should be flush with the flat plates. It might be a tight fit; just screw them in. Then add the eight nuts, making them flush with the ends of the screws. | + | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-metal1.png?800}} |
| - | Turn the smaller flat piece over, and slide the two nuts on one side into the channel of one of the straight pieces: | + | Their heads should be flush with the flat plates. It might be a tight fit; just screw them in. Then add the eight nuts, making them flush with the ends of the screws - this leaves space so the nuts fit into the channel. |
| + | |||
| + | =====Attach T-Plate to Channels===== | ||
| + | |||
| + | Turn the smaller "T-Plate" flat piece over, and slide the two nuts on one side into the channel of one of the straight pieces: | ||
| {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-corner.png}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-corner.png}} | ||
| Line 31: | Line 41: | ||
| The nuts may freewheel inside the channel when you turn the screws. To prevent this, jam a small flat-blade screwdriver next to the nut (don't use your expensive ball-end hex driver for this!). One side of the nut will grab the screwdriver blade as you turn the screw, the other side will push it out; use the grabbing side. Don't forget to remove the screwdriver afterwards. | The nuts may freewheel inside the channel when you turn the screws. To prevent this, jam a small flat-blade screwdriver next to the nut (don't use your expensive ball-end hex driver for this!). One side of the nut will grab the screwdriver blade as you turn the screw, the other side will push it out; use the grabbing side. Don't forget to remove the screwdriver afterwards. | ||
| - | Attach the the other straight piece to the other side of the flat piece. Make it square and flush in the same way. If you don't have a square object that fits between the two arms, check that they are parallel by measuring the distance between them with a ruler, at both ends. | + | Attach the other side of this T-Plate piece to the other channel. Make it square and flush in the same way. If you don't have a square object that fits between the two arms, check that they are parallel by measuring the distance between them with a ruler, at both ends. |
| - | The remaining flat piece connects into the other end of the channels. To set its position, use your platform (heated or unheated bed) as a gauge. | + | =====Attach U-Plate to Channels===== |
| + | |||
| + | The remaining flat piece, the U-Plate, connects into the other end of the channels. To set its position, use your platform (heated or unheated bed) as a gauge. | ||
| (If you have a heated platform: Remember that the heated bed is one of the more expensive single components of your kit. Don't damage it by applying excessive forces to it during the following procedure.) | (If you have a heated platform: Remember that the heated bed is one of the more expensive single components of your kit. Don't damage it by applying excessive forces to it during the following procedure.) | ||
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| {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-bedalign1.png}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-bedalign1.png}} | ||
| - | Find your platform mount kit and get out the three flat-head screws. There should be two long ones and one short one. Lift up the bed and insert the screws through from the underside, as shown above. The heads of the screws fit into chamfered holes. | + | Find your platform mount kit and get out the three flat-head screws (in the small bag with the orange pieces, [[bukobot-parts-list#y-carriage|bag 14b]]). There should be two long ones and one short one. Lift up the bed and insert the screws through from the underside, as shown above. The heads of the screws fit into chamfered holes. |
| Set the metal parts on a flat surface (not the heated bed), screw heads facing up, and slide the four nuts on the last flat part into the channels in the straight pieces. Tighten the four screws, and then back them off just until the four nuts slide freely in the channels. | Set the metal parts on a flat surface (not the heated bed), screw heads facing up, and slide the four nuts on the last flat part into the channels in the straight pieces. Tighten the four screws, and then back them off just until the four nuts slide freely in the channels. | ||
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| {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-bedalign2.png}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-bedalign2.png}} | ||
| - | Line up the two holes in the loose half of the metal assembly with the two longer flat-head screws at one end of the bed, and pass the screws through the holes. Then shift the other part of the metal assembly until the third flat-head screw lines up with its hole. Check that all three screws are vertical and not tilted. | + | Line up the two holes in the loose half of the metal assembly with the two longer flat-head screws at one end of the bed, and pass the screws through the holes. Then shift the other part of the metal assembly until the third flat-head screw lines up with its hole. Check that all three screws are vertical and not tilted. (The shorter screw may not be long enough to reach the hole in the T-Plate, so just peer down the hole and look for the screw.) |
| - | When everything lines up, apply just enough pressure to the flat metal piece to prevent it sliding over the straight pieces, and gently tighten the four loose screws, just until you feel some drag on the screws. Then carefully lift the metal assembly off the screws and move it to another flat surface, and tighten the screws the rest of the way. | + | When everything lines up, apply just enough pressure to the flat metal piece to prevent it sliding over the straight pieces, and gently tighten the four loose screws, just until you feel some drag on the screws - you don't want to press down on the bed so much that you damage it. Then carefully lift the metal assembly off the screws and move it to another flat surface, and tighten the screws the rest of the way. |
| Move the assembly back to the bed and check that everything still lines up. Then set this assembly aside. | Move the assembly back to the bed and check that everything still lines up. Then set this assembly aside. | ||
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| Lift the bed off of the three flat-head screws and put it back in its protective packaging. Put the three screws back in their bag, but don't put the bag away just yet. | Lift the bed off of the three flat-head screws and put it back in its protective packaging. Put the three screws back in their bag, but don't put the bag away just yet. | ||
| - | ==Completing carriage== | + | =====Completing the Y Carriage===== |
| + | |||
| + | ====Attach the Standoff==== | ||
| From the platform mounting kit, you will need the M3 button-head screw and the M3x14mm standoff. Put the rest of that sub-kit aside for now. | From the platform mounting kit, you will need the M3 button-head screw and the M3x14mm standoff. Put the rest of that sub-kit aside for now. | ||
| - | The screw and the standoff go at the end of the carriage that has one hole. The screw goes on the bottom of the carriage plate and the standoff goes on the top, pointing up. (The slots in the long aluminum pieces face up, unless you don't have those, in which case it doesn't matter.) | + | The screw and the standoff go at the end of the carriage that has one hole. The screw goes on the bottom of the carriage plate and the standoff goes on the top, pointing up. (The slots in the long aluminum pieces face up, unless you don't have the long aluminum pieces, in which case it doesn't matter.) |
| + | |||
| + | Make sure this screw is tight, and check it occasionally when you're using the printer. If it loosens, the back end of the platform will wobble excessively and mess up your prints. | ||
| {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-standoff.png}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-standoff.png}} | ||
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| Many of the following images don't show the standoff. They should. | Many of the following images don't show the standoff. They should. | ||
| - | Find the remaining linear bearing hardware: linear bearings, bearing holders, 5Mx10mm button-head screws, and nuts (four of each). Trim the holders if needed, and assemble them as before. There are no cable ties this time. Set these assemblies aside for now. | + | ====Assemble the Bearings==== |
| + | |||
| + | Find the remaining linear bearing hardware: linear bearings, bearing holders, 5Mx10mm button-head screws, and nuts (four of each). Trim the holders if needed, and assemble them as described in [[jitsbuild x carriage]]. Don't apply cable ties at this time. Set these assemblies aside for now. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ====Y Tensioner Clearance==== | ||
| Find this: | Find this: | ||
| Line 73: | Line 93: | ||
| {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-tensioner-kit.png}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-tensioner-kit.png}} | ||
| - | Attaching the Y tensioner to the Y carriage must be done with care. There is very little clearance under the Y carriage, and the screws protruding beneath it might collide with another part while the carriage is moving. To prevent this, you can cut 2mm off the end of the Y tensioner attachment screws, or you can put a 2mm spacer under the head of each screw. This kit provides M3 nuts to act as spacers, one nut per screw. | + | Attaching the Y tensioner to the Y carriage must be done with care. There is very little clearance under the Y carriage, and the screws protruding beneath it might collide with another part while the carriage is moving. To prevent this, you could cut 2mm off the end of the Y tensioner attachment screws, or you can simply put a 2mm spacer under the head of each screw. This kit provides M3 nuts to act as spacers, one nut per screw. |
| Alternatively, if you have the parts, you can substitute a stack of washers instead of the nut. A stack of three M3 flat steel washers fits quite well: two 7mm diameter washers, and one 9mm diameter fender washer. These are the same kinds of M3 washers used elsewhere on the printer. They fit better than the nut, and make it easier to adjust the tensioner. | Alternatively, if you have the parts, you can substitute a stack of washers instead of the nut. A stack of three M3 flat steel washers fits quite well: two 7mm diameter washers, and one 9mm diameter fender washer. These are the same kinds of M3 washers used elsewhere on the printer. They fit better than the nut, and make it easier to adjust the tensioner. | ||
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| The nut spacer is shown on the left, and the alternative spacer made of washers is shown on the right: | The nut spacer is shown on the left, and the alternative spacer made of washers is shown on the right: | ||
| - | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-spacercomp.png}} | + | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-spacercomp.png?800}} |
| Choose which method you will use, and put the chosen spacers on the three M3x20 button-head screws. | Choose which method you will use, and put the chosen spacers on the three M3x20 button-head screws. | ||
| - | Attach the bearing assemblies and the tensioner parts to the metal assembly: | + | ====Attach the Bearing Assemblies and Tensioner parts==== |
| + | |||
| + | Attach the bearing assemblies and the tensioner parts to the metal assembly as shown. The exact positioning of these tensioner parts will be determined later when assembling the [[jitsbuild-y-axis|Y axis]]. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Get out one of the precision steel rods and use it to make sure the linear bearings are straight before you tighten the screws on the bearing holders. Make sure you insert the nice end of the rod, and don't bang the end of the rod against the bearing balls inside. | ||
| Bottom view: | Bottom view: | ||
| {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-bottomview.png}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-bottomview.png}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | Note the nut on the long flat-head screw, between the two plastic parts. It fits into a hexagonal depression on the rectangular plastic part. | ||
| The small white semicircular printed plastic part on the end of the long screw is the Y synchromesh tensioner. Without the synchromesh cable in place, this part is likely to fall off and get lost. So put it back in the bag for now. | The small white semicircular printed plastic part on the end of the long screw is the Y synchromesh tensioner. Without the synchromesh cable in place, this part is likely to fall off and get lost. So put it back in the bag for now. | ||
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| Top view, with the kit-provided nuts as spacers: | Top view, with the kit-provided nuts as spacers: | ||
| - | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-topview.png}} | + | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-topview.png?800}} |
| Top view, using washers instead for the spacers: | Top view, using washers instead for the spacers: | ||
| Line 99: | Line 125: | ||
| {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-topview-washerspacers.png}} | {{wiki:jitsbuild:y-carriage-topview-washerspacers.png}} | ||
| - | [[jitsbuild-yaxis|Next: Y axis]] | + | [[jitsbuild-y-frontend|Next: Y front end]] < [[jitsbuild| Up to Jitsbuild]] > [[jitsbuild-y-axis|Next: Y axis]] |
| - | //The contents of this page may be re-used under any of the following licenses: The [[http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/|Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License (CC BY-SA 3.0)]], or the [[http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html|GNU Free Documentation License (GFDL, version 1.2 or later)]].// | + | //The contents of this page may be re-used under any of the following licenses: The [[http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/|Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License (CC BY-SA 3.0)]], or the [[http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html|GNU Free Documentation License (GFDL, version 1.2 or later)]]. Nothing on any of these pages is there to tell you what to do, only what other people have already done.// |
jitsbuild-y-carriage.1353102105.txt.gz · Last modified: 2012/11/16 15:41 by jit
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