troubleshooting [2013/05/10 09:16] buildrob Adding more items - help out if you can. |
troubleshooting [2014/01/25 17:56] (current) jit added warning about Bukobot versions |
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If you have solved a problem which you think might be useful to others then please add it to this page. | If you have solved a problem which you think might be useful to others then please add it to this page. | ||
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+ | See also: [[jitsbuild-failure-conditions|Failure conditions to watch out for]] | ||
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+ | //This page was written during the [[jitsbuild|Bukobot v1 era]]. It should be checked to make sure it does not contain information that might confuse v2 owners.// | ||
===== Software ===== | ===== Software ===== | ||
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| | 3) Operating in a very cold environment | Add some thermal insulation around hot end. E.g., using ceramic tape, rectangles of silicon from oven molds/trays (see also: http://bukobot.com/hot-end-thermal-management). Can also increase power supply voltage to 13.5-14V instead of 12V (using the small trimpot adjustment on the power supply and a multimeter) to increase power dissipation of heater element. Could also build a cover around Bukobot or relocate. | | | | 3) Operating in a very cold environment | Add some thermal insulation around hot end. E.g., using ceramic tape, rectangles of silicon from oven molds/trays (see also: http://bukobot.com/hot-end-thermal-management). Can also increase power supply voltage to 13.5-14V instead of 12V (using the small trimpot adjustment on the power supply and a multimeter) to increase power dissipation of heater element. Could also build a cover around Bukobot or relocate. | | ||
| | 4) Poor connection in heater wiring. | If the supply voltage setting and airflow are all normal, then there may be a poor connection in the wiring. Ensure that the screw terminal connections are all solid. | | | | 4) Poor connection in heater wiring. | If the supply voltage setting and airflow are all normal, then there may be a poor connection in the wiring. Ensure that the screw terminal connections are all solid. | | ||
- | | Extruder slips on filament (clicking sound) | 1) Gummed up drive gear teeth | Clean drive gear teeth (e.g., with brush or a pointy piece of filament). | | + | | Extruder slips on filament (clicking sound) | 1) Nozzle is fully heated but plastic will not extrude or requires too much force to extrude, indicating a clog. | Follow the [[nozzle cleaning]] instructions. | |
- | | | 2) Not enough extruder spring tension | Ensure the nut is done up all the way on the spring tensioner screw. Some particularly stiff and problematic filament types many benefit from adding a couple more washers to get a bit more compression. | | + | | | 2) Gummed up drive gear teeth | Clean drive gear teeth (e.g., with brush or a pointy piece of filament). | |
- | | | 3) Hot-end is starting too close to print bed which is preventing the filament from extruding. | See print-related problems for remedies. | | + | | | 3) Not enough extruder spring tension | Ensure the nut is done up all the way on the spring tensioner screw. Some particularly stiff and problematic filament types many benefit from adding a couple more washers to get a bit more compression. | |
- | | | 4) Filament is thicker than configured filament diameter and extruder cannot extrude the extra plastic. | Reduce the configured diameter to match filament (requires reslice) or reduce flowrate (remember that flowrate is proportional to area so therefore should be set to (diameter configured/diameter actual) squared). This can also be a problem on poorer quality filaments where there is a large degree of variation in the diameter from one point to the next (hence the recommendation to take a number of thickness measurements along the filament and average them). | | + | | | 4) Hot-end is starting too close to print bed which is preventing the filament from extruding. | See print-related problems for remedies. | |
- | | Dark liquid is slowly leaking out from under PEEK (plastic) insulator on hot-end. | This is considered normal when extruding PLA (as long as it not leaking out too rapidly), i.e., cosmetic issue only. Turning up the hot-end up to 240C and running a meter or so of ABS filament through the extruder is believed to help seal any holes (ABS is not as runny as PLA and melts at a higher temperature). | | + | | | 5) Filament is thicker than configured filament diameter and extruder cannot extrude the extra plastic. | Reduce the configured diameter to match filament (requires reslice) or reduce flowrate (remember that flowrate is proportional to area so therefore should be set to (diameter configured/diameter actual) squared). This can also be a problem on poorer quality filaments where there is a large degree of variation in the diameter from one point to the next (hence the recommendation to take a number of thickness measurements along the filament and average them). | |
+ | | Dark liquid is slowly leaking out from under PEEK (plastic) insulator on hot-end. | This is considered normal when extruding PLA (as long as it not leaking out too rapidly), i.e., cosmetic issue only. Turning up the hot-end up to 240C and running a meter or so of ABS filament through the extruder is believed to help seal any holes (ABS is not as runny as PLA and melts at a higher temperature). Note that the new Spitfire hot end is all-metal, and does not leak| | ||
===== Motors and Movement ===== | ===== Motors and Movement ===== | ||